The Three Terrors of the Fire Swamp . . .

In the Princess Bride, there is a great scene where Buttercup despairs in the Fire Swamp . . .

Buttercup: [recovering] We'll never succeed — we may as well die here.

Westley: No. No. We have already succeeded. I mean, what are the three terrors of the Fire Swamp? One, the flame spurts. No problem. There's a popping sound preceding each, we can avoid that. Two, the Lightning Sand. But you were clever enough to discover what that looks like, so in the future we can avoid that too.

Buttercup: Westley, what about the R.O.U.S.'s?

Westley: Rodents of Unusual Size? I think they don't exist. [an R.O.U.S. attacks him on cue.] 

Well, for a SOBO thru hiker, there are also three dangers:

1) Summitting Katahdin your first day - toughest climb

2) Entering the 100 Mile Wilderness your second day (the heaviest pack of the entire trip is on your back before you develop trail legs), 

And,

3) Entering the Mahoosuc's and White Mountians (toughest section of the AT) to finish off your first month. 

These are the three dangers of starting SOBO.

Well, I feel a bit like Wesley.  Having overcome Katahdin and the Wilderness, I built confidence; but fear the ROUS's (Rocks of Unusual Size) are ready to attack.

Maine has been beatiful with lots of water.  Rained the first two days but beatiful since then.  I write this update from Shaw's Hiker Hostile in Monson Maine.  An oasis on the southern end of the Wildererness.

Erik and I made it through the 100 Mile Wilderness in just over 7 days which puts us ahead of schedule.  We took on a brutal 18 mile hike over White Cap that had over 5000 feet of elevation gain on Day 5.  About killed me but it did earn us a zero day in Monson.  During that break we shook down (shed unnecessary weight), had a huge dinner and breakfast and lunch and . . .resupplied (I mailed way more food than we needed so mailing most back - doing what I can to help bail out the USPS). 

Next stretch is a bit tamer as we head to Caratunk.  We will enjoy all the easy miles we can before the ROUS's in southern Maine and NH attack (we met several NOBOs that just went through those mountains and they were consistent on three things - they are big, they are steep and they are impressive.

Pictures and daily details below.  Next update from Caratunk this weekend.

Day 1 - Left Katahdin Stream Camp Ground for a 13 mile first day ending at Hurd Brook.  Was just a week ago but feels like forever.  I remember waving good-by to Peggy and Rachel.  It was so hard, as the five months apart suddenly became quite real.  Miss them both so much.

The day was misty and we pulled into camp late.  Highlight of the day was finding a trio of goslings on a remote creek.

Misty and wet to start our adventure 

Wildflowers in the woods are so beautiful (they remind me of my wife)

Looks like bubbles but actually a moss

Our three new friends

Entering the 100 mile wilderness - beware

Day 2 - Rained all day which kept bugs and temperatures down but made everything wet :(.  Hiked 12 miles ending at Raindow Stream Lean To.  Gorgeous location right on a set of cascades that serenaded us to sleep.

This is where the expression "Busy as Beavers" comes from.

Rainbow Stream Lean To

Erik rockin' his Uke

A lot bigger than those back home 

Saw many of these, most had one bloom, this one had NINE!  (Thinking of Peggy)

Day 3 - Sunny :). Things dried out as we made our way to Nahmakanta Lean To (14 miles).  Got to camp early and Erik and I played some Gin Rummy (we have a running game during the trek). We met PackRat who is carrying 65 pounds of kit so worried for him getting out of the Wilderness.   It reminded me of Yosemite trips, so glad I am down to 30 pounds this time ;).

An overcast view of Katahdin from the Wilderness.  Making progress

Day 4 - A long slow hike across bogs, roots and rocks from Nahmakanta to Cooper Brook.  The term "trail" is used loosely in many sections of the AT.  More like a minefield.  Today was a 16 mile hike that proved some days are not spectacular, they are more about putting in the miles and getting closer to spectacular.   Given the long miles, can you tell who I was thinking about?

A better view of Katahdin as the clouds start clearing

Wildflowers are in there;)

The Brooks and streams are gorgeous though can be exciting to cross

More wildflowers 

Trying to capture each new one that we see

So many varieties 

They warm my heart

Day 5 - Today was supposed to be an easy 12 miler.  But, when we arrived at camp (Logan Brook Lean to) after watering up, we felt so good we pushed on for another 6 miles (which included climbing White Cap Mountain). The water at Logan Brook was SO cold and clear it was like an elixir.  However, after climbing White Cap, the elixir wore off and by the time we hit camp I thought I would die (and Erik was sure I was dying ;)). Still, it proved we could do an 18 miler with 5000+ feet of lift (several of these days coming in the future) and the extra effort bought us a zero day in Monson.

Katahdin keeps getting smaller :)

Top of White Cap - 3600 foot climb

Panorama from top of White Cap

Day 6 - After two tough days we backed off a little but still had the Chairbacks to climb; that started today.  We did 12 miles from Campsite to Chairback Lean To.  We included a cool side trip through Gulf Hagas.

A side trail leads to Gulf Hagas

Which has many cool waterfalls

The best was Screw Auger Falls

Erik taking a welcome break

The creek runs down a narrow slate canyon

Some of the fords are so wide the only option is change to water shoes and wade across.  Others, we rock hop (with some exciting results :)).

A new wild flower and thoughts of home

Top of Chairback Mountain and the last big climb in the Wilderness 

We usually tent near the lean to (better for keeping bugs and critters away)

Panorama from top of Chairback 

Day 7 - Finished the Chairbacks today (yea!) as we hiked 11 miles from Chairback to Long Pond Stream.  All the back to back hiking is taking a toll as the 11 miles today felt a lot like the 18 miles earlier.  Will be good to get a break and recharge.

Pumping water and breakfast near a mountain stream is a great start to the day

So many mountains to climb they give them numbers instead of names

Erik's hiking stick develops a comb over ;)

Another summit crested

Another new flower

Cool old fire tower on Barren Mountain

The last of the Chairbacks - Yes!

Nice view from the top

I love my wife :)

Several panoramas given all the climbing today

100 mile wilderness means just trees and lakes 

Best view of the day from fire tower on Barren Mountain

Day 8 - Just 15 miles to Monson with a few healthy climbs (though nothing like the past few days).  Amazing how quickly the last few miles went by knowing a night in town was waiting.  Seven nights in the woods trekking over 110 miles and climbing across two mountain ranges - a lot accomplished in our first week.

Wilson Falls

Love this one

OUT of the wilderness - now on to Monson

The AT is at the heart of Maine 

Day 9 - Zero day in Monson.  Magical! Feel so much better after a day of rest and FOOD! A good nights sleep tonight in an actual bed and then back on the trail.

This is Monson - all of it! 

This is Shaws - great place.  Erik is with Indigo his new best friend

Next update Caratunk.  Thanks to all for prayers and well wishes!