Virginia - The Final Chapter

It is hard to believe we are actually in Virginia. Starting back in May this seemed so far away - at 4,250 miles it was far away. Yet, day by day, mile by mile and hill by hill here it is. Good life lesson about persistence and solving big problems by breaking them down into smaller more manageable chunks. We are excited to be in the Appalachians and in Virginia as both have good memories for us and despite the challenging climbs we expect better scenery and things to see. Look forward to touching the Atlantic Ocean and declaring victory on an adventure that finished quicker than I expected though was much harder than I expected.

Day 74 - 45 Miles to Elk Garden

We knew today would be difficult so we got an early start.  Today is only 45 miles but in the Appalachians that can be a long ride.  After 5,000 feet of climb yesterday our legs are not really fresh and we are climbing another 6,200 feet today.  We left into a foggy morning and the climb started right away as there were three medium sized hills back to back.  Once we got through those we got to climb a huge hill as a reward.  The big climb was easier than expected as the grade was not as bad as yesterday.  All that climbing earned as a little downhill so we cruised into Honaker and had lunch at Bea's Cafe.  We also moved past all the flooding so don't have to worry as much about closed roads and downed bridges.  After lunch we had two more climbs to get to Elk Garden and the Methodist Church which offers a bike hostel where we will spend the night.   We pulled in around 3 PM and while the day went better than expected we were still glad to be done.  Tomorrow is an easier day as we head into Damascus; an AT trail town we stayed in four years ago.

Today's milestones - we climbed 6,200 feet which iis the most climb we have done in a single day.  Surprising given how high the Rockies are but the Appalachians pack a punch.  We also have completed 3,750 TAT Miles.

The fog amongst the hills in the morning was a great reminder of our previous experience in the Appalachians

In some places the Kudzu has taken over everything. Does look cool when it forms columns and drapes

Thought we crossed our first live snake but it turned out to be plastic

The view from the top of today's big climb

Day 75 - 33 miles to Damascus

Today was an awesome day.  It was a short day (though it still had 3,500 feet of climb), the weather was cooler and we are in some of the most beautiful parts of the Appalachians.   The hostel last night was nice and we had Jimmy Dean egg, sausage and cheese croissants for breakfast.   Toby stayed at the hostel last night as well (we met Toby in Booneville.  He is from Switzerland and is biking all over the US on a skip year).  We left early to beat the heat and knowing we had a big climb.  The climb had a decent grade but was high and after all the climbing this week my legs were hurting but we got over it.  Burned up my brakes with all the tight turns going down the other side.  The scenery was amazing as the canopy closed over us.  The hillside was steep and there was no guard rail.  I told Erik, "if you narrowed the road and made it dirt this could easily be the AT hiking through the woods".  There trees were there, the rocks were there, the creeks were there and the climbs were there.  Such good memories - I loved it.  We pushed through to Meadowview and had second breakfast at a McDonald's.  Toby had caught up so he joined us.  He is heading to Troutdale today while we are stopping at Damascus.   Damascus is an AT Trail town that we stayed in during our hike.  Good memories here though the four years and Covid led to many changes.   It does have a bike shop so we can get a few things tuned.  We pulled into town around 12:30 and hit the bike shop right away.  Good guys who suggested I leave well enough alone for the last 500 miles and replace parts when I get home.  They did tune the derailleur so hoping that works better tomorrow.  We took showers, did laundry and ate a late lunch.  Then more rest as we have a big climb up Mount Roger's tomorrow (if they call it Mount you know it is big - 3,700 feet) and what looks like a 58 mile day.

Today's milestones - we have less than 500 miles to go.  We crossed over the Appalachian Trail.

These are the mountains I love to be in - beautiful.

The mountain road was almost like a hiking trail winding up and then down

2D pictures cannot really capture how steep the hillside is with no guardrail it was exciting

The uphill side just screamed Appalachians - it was a good climb

Over the top and the mist of the valley just blends with the clouds

Near Damascus

Nature slowly takes things back

Day 76 - 59 miles to Wytheville 

We left Damascus early and started biking up Mount Rogers.  The area is so beautiful (this is where the Virginia Creeper Trail runs) and holds so many memories that the morning was special.   The weather was cool and sunny, the canopy provided shade and we had one of the best morning rides we experienced all trip.  We stopped several times to take pictures or exchange memories.  The climb was long (over 3,700 feet high) but not too steep.  To be honest, I was so enthralled with the beautiful surroundings that we reached the top before I knew it.  The ride down reminded me of the great Oregon rides where we slowly coast while the wonderful forest passes by.  I told Erik, if I could bike through these woods I could bike forever.   Not sure what it is about them but they speak to me.  All good things must come to an end and we exited Mount Rogers into undulating Virginia farm land.  We stopped and grabbed snacks at a Dollar Tree in Sugar Grove and then stopped for second breakfast at a diner in Rural Retreat.  (We both had French toast and scrambled eggs - total ticket $11.39.  I need to eat in Rural Retreat more often).  Second breakfast gave me a surge of energy so we blew through the last fifteen miles, additional hills and all.  Good thing too; the second we pulled under the hotel awning the rain started falling hard.  If you are seeing a pattern here, so am I.  We are continually blessed with good timing and just missing getting soaked.  Grateful for the prayers as they are clearly working.  After the rain stopped we grabbed some dinner (Subway :(), took our showers and got to bed.  Trying to get to Christiansburg tomorrow which would finish map 11 and position us well for a Monday hike up to McAfee Knob.

Today's milestone - we have completed more than 90% of the TransAmerica Trail.   Less than 425 miles remaining 

Laurel Creek and the Virginia Creeper Trail ran along side our early miles providing soothing sounds and beautiful scenery

Erik and I remembered crossing this bridge four years ago when we hiked into Damascus from the Appalachian Trail

Love the wildflowers at the edge of the wood

The morning light through the trees was almost magical

I love this area - riding through it was not work, it was a pleasure

Hello old friend

Almost got off my bike and started hiking

Erik took this cool video of us cruising diwn from Mount Rogers - you can see why I loved it so much

The waterfalls and cascades serenaded us all through the morning

Loved this wood cutters glen by the creekside

After Mount Rogers we traveled through farm country. I love the big gardens planted by some of the houses

Another cool log church, this one near Cedar Springs

Love when the canopy closes us in

We passed this bizarre door into the rock coming out of Rural Retreat - was tempted to go in but thought better of it. Wasn't a mine - maybe a cave that they put a door on?

Day 77 - 52 miles to Christiansburg

After two outstanding days today was a bit if a let down.  Rather than gorgeous woods and mountains, today was more town to town along freeway frontage roads.  The good news is we hit a Walmart and got Erik some new shoes along with a big box of donut sticks.  We knew rain was likely in the afternoon so left early.  There was a Waffle House in town so we rerouted there for breakfast .  Great memories of Waffle House breakfasts but today's was a little disappointing and sat heavy during the ride.  The course had no.big climbs, just lots of little ones.  Last day on map 11 and I guess it didn't want to disappoint.  We stayed pretty focused with the only stop being the Walmart.  Before we knew it we were in Radford with only twelve miles to go. Peggy kept texting updates on Rachel's soccer tournament (her team won gold) and that helped the miles go by faster.  About an hour later we got a severe thunderstorm warning on our phone for Radford/ Christiansburg.   We made a mad dash but there were three decent climbs to get into Christiansburg so the rain started falling when we were still 1-2 miles out.  We ducked under an awning to wait out the rain. I checked the radar and found a window of lighter rain. We waited 45 minutes until the rain slowed down and then pushed the last few miles to Christiansburg.   Since we made better than expected time this week, we will actually climb McAfee Knob tomorrow.   Super excited for that experience.   Let's pray it doesn't rain :)

Today's milestone  - we completed map 11. By far the toughest map on the TAT.  Only 365 miles and eight days to go.

Undulating hills were the theme of the day with rural yards in the foregroundand the mountains in the background

View from one of the many hill tops we crossed over today

These pictures are from Erik's perspective

This afternoon we passed through Radford - my grandson is named Radford and it had me thinking of him

We could see and hear the storm coming towards us but couldn't climb the hills fast enough to escape

Day 78 - 46 miles to Daleville

We left early into a thick fog as we knew the side trip to McAfee Knob would take some time.  As it's a Sunday, not a lot of stops for food and drink so we live out of the bags.  Luckily, we bought extra snacks at the store last night (love those donut sticks).  The trip to the trail head was thirty uneventful miles.  The good news is the trailhead was only one mile off course the bad news is that mile was a steep hill.  It was only a four mile hike to McAfee Knob though it climbs up 1,700 feet.  We took the Appalachian Trail up.  Was exciting to see those white blazes again guiding us along the path.  The climb was steep but we were excited to be hiking rather than biking for a change.  The weather was better today with no rain forecast.   That did make it warmer and the humidity was 98 percent so it was a moist hike up.  Worth it though for that memorable view and iconic pictures.  Given we still had about twenty miles to Daleville we didn't spend much time on the summit.  The hike down was actually worse.  I did it in biking shoes so my feet were unhappy and my knee weighed in that it prefers biking.  It was a reminder of the benefits of biking.  We sit all day and it is easier on the feet.  It's just pushing the bike up the hill is so much harder than hiking up with a backpack.  While the side trip was fun it did take a toll as I struggled with the several hills getting into Daleville. Coincidentally, we are staying at the same hotel in Daleville that we stayed at when we were hiding from the hurricane when hiking the AT.  We are looking at a little lighter day tomorrow as we have seven days left and only 319 miles.

Today's milestone - Hiked McAfee Knob, a goal set at the beginning of our trip

We passed through this little tunnel just before Ellett

There were four vultures roosting on this house

Still seeing barn quilts - I like the tradition

A little wet and wilty but still brightens the day

McAfee Knob isn't the only good view today. Looking across Virginia farmland

You know we are near the Appalachian Trail as they put signs at the top of every summit

Was exciting to be following the white blazes again as we took the AT up to McAfee Knob

It is not raining, just really humid . . .

The view from McAfee Knob

Looking over the edge . . .

Erik relaxing where I couldn't

This is as close to the edge as I go

McAfee Knob is at the top of that mountain just past the electric line corridor

Passed this pretty flower garden just before getting to Daleville

Day 79 - 46 miles to Lexington

We started the day with a Cracker Barrel breakfast which is a good way to start.  The day was then made up of undulating hills running past farms, stands of trees and freeway frontage roads.  We are getting into more densely populated areas which typically means more infrastructure and traffic with less good scenery.   We did pass through downtown Lexington and the VMI campus which were both pretty cool.  To be honest. With only a week remaining my mind is more focused on finishing and getting home than on the scenery around me.  Also still feeling the hike from yesterday.   Shin splints, some weird muscles above my glutes are screaming and generally more tired than I think I should be.  Monster climb tomorrow so will rest up tonight.

Today's milestone - less than a week of left.  Today was our last Monday peddling. 

We keep crossing over the Appalachian Trail. Don't you want to venture down that trail and into those woods?

We passed this awesome swinging bridge in Buchanan today

Saw these while riding today and thought it would be a perfect setting for Rachel to build a fairy house

We usually eat out of our bags but sometimes make a Walmart run if it's close

Day 80 - 33 miles to Love

Yes we are literally in Love 🥰.   Only 33 miles today but over 3,900 feet of climb - most of it in a four mile span.  Definitely the hardest climb we have done as it was both steep and long.  Climbs are usually one or the other.  It took us to about 3,600 feet, the highest we have been East of the Mississippi.   It also dropped us onto the Blue Ridge Parkway.   More good memories as the AT winds through the Blue Ridge and we are biking past some of the same overlooks we hiked through four years ago.  Today also was the last big climb.of the TAT for us.  We have a few smaller climbs tomorrow as we travel along the Blue Ridge and then we drop down out of the Appalachians and have several downward days heading too the coast.  Sunny and warm today. 

Today's milestone - we passed the 4,000 mile mark today and have been out a total of 80 days.  Almost there  . . .

The fog of an early morning start

One benefit of starting early is the sunlight playing through the leaves

Great name for a town right before the nastiest climb on the entire TAT

The climb was KILLER as it was 4+ miles long and a steep grade. The good news is it ends with us on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Erik at the first overlook

I loved the vintage milage markers in the park

Looking back toward our climb up the Blue Ridge

The Parkway offered so.many stunning views

Look closely and you can see me slogging up the hill on the left edge of the picture

Finally came across a live snake, not the one you want to run into

4,000 miles completed

Shenandoah is only 27 miles away but sadly we head in a different direction

Day 81 - 46 miles to Charlottesville

Today started out wonderful as we peddled along the Blue Ridge Parkway and it was beautiful.  There were a few climbs but it was mostly downhill (as we paid the price with yesterday's climb).  Cruising down the hill  felt like being on a hang glider as the trees opened up and gave us an unobstructed view of the valley below.  First on one side and then on the other.  When the valley views weren't there we were surrounded by the canopy and there were butterflies fluttering around.  After about 20 miles, with regret, we left the Blue Ridge and descended down toward Charlottesville.   I immediately missed the mountains and woods as we headed into farmland and horse country.  Not farm horse country but race horse country.  We passed the Foxwoods race track and several large horse properties.  Was thinking Rachel would love it here.  As we entered Charlottesville we passed the University of Virginia (founded in 1817 by Thomas Jefferson).  It was a beautiful campus with many stoic old buildings and a lot of history.   Reminded me of the cool college we saw in Berea, Kentucky - though UV is much bigger.

Today's milestone - we exited the Appalachians and entered the coastal plain.  No more mountains between us and the finish. 

The Blue Ridge are gorgeous in the morning

Overlooks like this make the hard climbs so worth it

Four years ago Erik and I crawled up out of that AT hole. It is nice the TAT took us back to some of our favorite AT memories

Caught the bumble bee 🐝 on the back flower

We will be down in that valley in another twenty miles

Vistas kept opening up on both sides as we cruised down the Parkway

Butterflies 🦋 were all about this morning

We passed a Visitors Center with period farm buildings from when the Blue Ridge was originally settled

With the garden and scarecrow

No bee, just a wildflower this time

Erik, committed too the panorama

We passed an orchard on the way to Charlottesville - fresh nectarines were delicious

Lots of new flowers today

Passed a lot of horse country this afternoon

Going through the University of Virginia campus was impressive

Day 82 - 54 miles to Louisa (34 miles)

We ended up going a little off route today and will get back on tomorrow.  Reason being a 100 mile stretch with no apparent lodging, camping or hostel.  We seem to hit one stretch like this in every state.  So we took a back route to Louisa and will rejoin the TAT in Mineral tomorrow.   As a result,  today was about 20 miles shorter and tomorrow will be 5 miles longer.  The path today took us by some exquisite winery and horse properties.  The entire farm had manicured landscaping,  immaculate fencing and beautiful horses 🐎.   Some serious wealth I imagine.   Thunderstorms were in the forecast but luckily did not materialize.  Hoping for sunnier days as we head toward the beach.

Today's milestone - shortest riding day time wise.  We finished today's ride in 3 hours.

This is the entrance to one of many "country estates" we passed on our way from Charlottesville to Louisa

This is one of the horses out grazing. That doesn't look like a work horse . . .

Day 83 - 64 miles to Richmond

After a bunch of short days with climb I was curious how a longer day would go.  It went great.  We got into Richmond at 2:30 and I felt like I could peddle another 20-25 miles.  The weather was wonderful today, I am sure that helped.  High was 80 and the clouds covered the sun most of the day.  Only down side was the scenery.   This morning we went by Louisa schools and school was in session.   There were a ton of cars and busses and no bike lane or shoulder.   When we passed through Mineral things calmed down though we returned to soybean and corn fields. On occasion we passed a fancy horse property.   Eventually we made our way into Ashland and then Richmond where the traffic picked up and the scenery became more urban.  We have 78 miles left so are considering whether to push to Yorktown tomorrow or cut it into two shorter days.

Today's milestone - we have less than 100 miles left

A few scenes from Lake Anna that we peddled past this morning

There is always a story about how a town got its name. I would love to hear this one

Many churches have these outdoor pavilions which make excellent places for breaks or waiting out the rain

The soybean fields were more mature here in Virginia

When you get closer you can see the raw edamame

We passed this huge horse barn and pasture on a farm dedicated to thoroughbreds

In Ashland we passed several cool Victorian houses that were part of the college

Reminded me of The Mulberry Inn and The Whitehead Home in St George. Look forward to seeing both soon

The train tracks went right down the middle of Center Street in Ashland. After lunch the Amtrak buzzed by as we were leaving town

Day 84 - 67 miles to Williamsburg

Today was awesome.   We started in downtown Richmond which is a ghost town at 7 AM Saturday.   It was cool driving past the brownstones and colonials as we made our way toward the James River.  At that point we jumped onto a 51 mile bike path connecting Richmond with Jamestown.   We haven't been on a real bike path since Colorado and forgot how wonderful it is not to worry about traffic.  The grades were easy and several sections were wooded.  The miles passed too quickly and we were in Jamestown.   We opted to forego the pilgrim village to get to Williamsburg in time to explore.  That was an additional ten miles and we pulled on around lunch time.  One large BBQ chicken pizza later we were cruising around Williamsburg checking out all the colonial buildings.   Bikes were a great choice as the town is quite large and there was a lot to see.  We then planned to finish up in Yorktown as it is only 13 miles away.  However,  there was no place to spend the night in Yorktown so we ended up staying in Williamsburg.  All in all a wonderful day with wonderful weather and a smooth ride.  Hard to believe just one day left.  Excited and disappointed at the same time.  After Missouri I was ready to go home and thought this day wouldn't come soon enough.   But after McAfee Knob,  the Blue Ridge, Mount Rogers and the trail today - I could peddle a few more days like those :).  

Today's milestone - Rode more than fifty contiguous miles on a bike path. Longest distance on a single bike path in my life.

We passed the Virginia State Capital building while riding through Richmond this morning

We jumped on the Virginia Capital Trail at its northern terminus - mile 51.2

The trail was gorgeous. A little crowded as it was Saturday but so much better than a road

This bike statue marked our halfway point

Looking out from the bridge over the Chickahominy River

During our snack break I found a few new wildflowers

Toward the end of the trail the woods turned into bogs - luckily there were bog bridges and we stayed dry

Before we knew it the 51 miles were done and we were at Jamestown

This is looking at Jamestown Island from across the James River (we were traveling down the Colonial National Historic Parkway)

So many cool sites to see in Colonial Williamsburg

And some cool experiences

Was amazed how this one branch was still growing out of the fallen and decaying tree trunk

Day 85 - 13 miles to Yorktown

We slept in a little, had a breakfast bag and got started on our final dat of peddling. The weather is gorgeous again with lower humidity and highs in the low 80s.  Our entire ride today is on the pebbled concrete of the Colonial National Historic Parkway.   We follow it past creeks, woods and bays to historic Yorktown.   We pull up to the victory monument which is the Eastern terminus for the TransAmerica Trail and take a moment to reflect on what we just completed.  A few pictures later and we are off exploring Yorktown and the battle there that decided the revolutionary war.  After touring the museum, my friend Alex and his wife came by with a trailer and were kind enough to pick up our bikes and take them over to Norfolk.   We will spend the night there, pack the bikes for shipment in the morning and then fly home in the afternoon.   Feels good going home while also feeling a little uncomfortable about not peddling tomorrow. 

Today's milestone - We FINISHED the TAT

The "bumpy" ride on the Colonial Parkway

The woods on both sides were gorgeous

King's Creek

Our morning ride was peaceful and beautiful

Looking across the York River

Dad and son at the finish

Erik at our final destination - celebrating completing the TransAmerica Trail

Felt good to be done peddling

After finishing we visited the beach

And visited the Yorktown Battlefield

And the town

And a final flower

Day 86 - Epilog

We biked over 4,300 total miles and 4,253 on trail in biking from Astoria, Oregon to Yorktown, Virginia in 85 days. Having never biked more than 50 miles at a time prior to leaving I didn't know what to expect. In many ways it was easier than I feared (the AT hike experience certainly made this trek easier). In some ways, it was significantly harder than expected. The stress of constant traffic buzzing by gets suppressed over time but is always there (I realized this when we rode the 50 mile bike trail from Richmond - was so much more relaxed and enjoyed the ride more). The recumbent was comfortable but was difficult pushing it up hills in Missouri and the Appalachians. Maybe that's why I didn't see any other recumbents on trail. The weather was also more of a factor than planned. When hiking the canopy shelters you, when biking you are fully exposed to the elements.

Overall, glad we took the trip and glad we finished safely. Good memories and many valuable lessons learned. After completing the AT it took a while to fully process and appreciate it. This time, I am just ready to be home :). Must be getting old.

Until the next adventure . . .