And then There were Three (weeks left in our Journey)

Wow, the days are flying by and starting to blur together. It is hard to believe we have less than 1,000 miles left to Yorktown. The steep climbs and long days of Missouri are still taking a toll on our legs as we make our way across Kentucky. Hoping they recover some before we hit the Appalachians and the hardest climbs of the trip. Also excited for the Appalachians and the memories of hiking the AT in Virginia. For now, just taking things one day at a time as we cross rural Kentucky and all the dogs we have heard so much about.

Day 64 - 44 miles to Sebree

Today is one of those "take what the trail gives" days as there just are not that many options on where to stay.   So, an easy day today and a hard day tomorrow instead of two normal days.  The good news is today ended at a bike hostel in the back of the First Baptist Church and it was awesome.  Shower, laundry and ice - everything a cyclist needs.  We arrived before noon so have a lot of time to rest and get ready for tomorrow.

Today's milestone - we have less than 1,000 miles remaining.  We are now counting down the final hundreds.  WOOT!

Still a lot of corn and soybean fields and steep rolling hills but Kentucky offers some variety in scenery

Riding past an old Kentucky barn ( Note how the high humidity clouds my lense :()

The "hostel " room at the First Baptist Church in Sebree - a welcoming oasis on a hot and humid day

Day 65 - 69 miles to Falls of Rough

After five lighter days to recover, I had a lot of concerns about today.  Memories of misery (Missouri) with 70 mile days and lots of climb.  As it turns out, the day was much better than expected.  First, the Baptist Church hostel was just awesome and getting there before noon, my legs got a long and needed rest.  Second, rain moved in so the temperature dropped 10 degrees and clouds blocked the sun.  And, it rained all night and then stopped five minutes before we got on our bikes. Coincidence,  I think not.  We are continually blessed on this trip - a big thank you for all the prayers.  Finally, while there was a lot of climb, it was not as steep as I feared (at least most of it). We had a second breakfast stop after 27 miles where we also hot ice and water.  We then pushed to Fordsville where we had a nice lunch at the Dinner Diner.  That left 16 miles, which isn't much, but the sun was burning through the overcast.  We also had three of our biggest climbs.  Did I mention the humidity was 98%.  The last 16 were tough but we got to the hotel at 3 PM.  My clothes were soaked to the point I could wring them out, yuck.  Jumped in the shower with them on and did some quick laundry :).  We saw several more turtles today (Erik saved most of them) and we also saw a crayfish crossing the road.  I don't know why.  Also saw a weasel or weasel type animal.  Scenery is a mix of fields, farms and trees so there is at least some variety.  Haven't had too many dog issues yet expect those in Appalachia.  Goodyo have the long day down.  Trying to stay around 50 miles a day to avoid injury as we hit more climbs these last three weeks. 

Today's milestone - saw a large crayfish land walking for the first time

A long day had us on the road by sunrise. The cloud cover kept the sun from baking us today

We are passing several large chicken farms. They stink worse than cows - have me thinking vegetarian

Found this big crayfish crawling across the road. Never seen one outside a creek before. We did not save him like we do the turtles so he got crushed by a truck. Should have stayed in the creek.

Just listen to the forest sounds coming from the woods beside us. This is in the middle of the day but it is so humid the frogs and bugs are having a party.

Day 66 - 46 miles to Sonora

Rain in the forecast for the next week but that is actually preferred to getting baked by the sun.  This morning we took off dry but the rain started within the hour and fell most of the morning.  Wasn't a hard rain, just enough to get us wet and throw rooster tails off the tires.  We haven't ridden in rain since Montana so hqd to remember the skills to avoid getting soaked.  With rain falling there are not many pictures or inclinations to stop so we pushed through the miles pretty quickly.  We did stop for second breakfast in Eastview (about 34 miles into our ride) and then stopped for lunch in Sonora as by then the rain had stopped.  Not much to see today.  We started near Rough River Lake and rode over the dam.  After that, the same cycle of corn/soybean fields, farms and occasional ponds and tree stands.  We have 315 miles of Kentucky remaining.   We will see if the scenery improves as we approach the Appalachians Friday. Tonight we are staying at an old guest house built in 1898. It was built by the current owners grandpa - kind of cool.

Today's milestone - we entered the Eastern timezone.  Another sign we are almost there.

Driving over the dam at Rough River this morning.

Our room at the Thurman Phillips Guest House

The guest house library had the complete works of Shakespeare published in 1895 and several other histories printed in the same period. I could have spent weeks in that room reading

The pond and guest houses across the street from the historic guest house

The grounds were beautiful

The Thurman Phillips Guest House

Even the bathroom had a built in library - you have to love this place

Day 67 - 55 miles to Springfield

We had a great time at the Thurman Guest House including a Jimmy Dean sausage croissant for breakfast and a good send off from Charlie.  The forecast rain never really appeared and the humidity was lower so one of the better mornings to ride.  The climbs were gentle and we had 35 miles done before we knew it.  We stopped for second breakfast at New Hope and then turned for Loretto and Springfield.   We made Loretto fine but a missing sign had us miss a turn and we ended up over 6 miles off course. Nothing for it but turn around and head back. Turned a regular day into a longer one but we were still in by early afternoon.   The rain didn't show up and neither did the clouds so the temperature was higher and the sun was hotter.  Rain forecast again for tomorrow so we will see how things look in the morning.  Saw a two point buck today, saved another turtle in the street and only had one dog encounter.  So far this map hasn't been bad.  Let's see what Appalachia has too offer - we should be there Thursday. 

Today's milestone - we have now completed more than 80% of the entire TransAmerica Trail 

Charlie saw us off on a cooler, less humid morning

I love when the canopy covers the road

This is the sights and sounds of a morning ride in Kentucky

Why do I like old barns? They just whisper history

The sheep look funny right after they have been shorn

Kentucky is horde country

Kentucky is also home to bourbon and we passed the Makers Mark distillery in Loretto. The storage warehouses looked like burned out public housing buildings - was a bit surreal passing by

Day 68 - 31 miles to Harrodsburg

Given the light day we took advantage and slept in a bit.  Had a light breakfast at the hotel where a cheesy Hallmark Christmas movie was playing and started on our day.  Thunderstorms hit twice yesterday evening and again this morning so it is wet but cooler.  Five miles in we stop at Lincoln State Park.  We missed Abraham Lincoln's birth place yesterday and it was supposed to be pretty cool. The park today was more about his grandfather who first moved to Kentucky and died in an Indian raid.  His youngest son, Thomas, was Abraham Lincoln's father.  He grew up and married in Kentucky and then moved to Illinois after Abe was born.  Anyway, not a lot at the park other than some cabins so we moved on.  The rains have upped the humidity so it's pretty muggy - especially going up hill when we slow down so there is no breeze.  Finished the 30 miles and checked into a seedy motel in Harrodsburg.   But, has AC and a shower so we will survive.  The rains hit pretty hard just east of us with a lot of flash flooding.  We are heading right into that section of eastern Kentucky after Berea tomorrow so hoping the rains and floods abate and there are no washed out roads or bridges.  Countryside and scenery starting to finally improve.  Excited for the Appalachians as long as my legs can handle the climbs.

Today's milestone - saw Abraham Lincoln's grandpa's log cabin.  You don't see that every day 

Abraham Lincoln's Uncles house

Abraham Lincoln's grandpa's cabin on the right

Another Lincoln family cabin. They gathered them all into a state park

A rustic old farm. Sad to see the old family farms die out and sell out or lease their land to big corporate agriculture

Two does and a fawn grazing in this field

Starting to get some views from the tops of the climbs - Appalachians are coming soon

Day 69 - 50 miles to Berea

Today was a longer day but a much better day.  The rain fell early but not while we were riding.  The clouds covered the sun and kept it cooler and the scenery got better as we moved along.  If it weren't for the 97% humidity and the Kentucky roller coaster the day would have been perfect.  The trees are filling in and the mountains are coming.  The wildlife is increasing and the traffic is decreasing; all making for a better ride.  We saw several deer yesterday and a wild turkey with all her babies today.  Our route is super rural - like single lane roads.  Almost got clipped today by a truck coming from the other direction.   Clearly he wasn't expecting any oncoming traffic and I am wider than a bike do it got tight.  We had second breakfast after 18 miles and then just kind of cruised through the woods until we ended up in Paint Lick, Kentucky.   Yes, Paint Lick.  Small town but actually had an open restaurant so we stopped for lunch. Local treats that were delicious.   A quick eight miles after lunch and we were at the Berea post office getting our last resupply boxes.  We also mailed the cold weather gear home; our vote of confidence it won't get cold through the Appalachians.   Berea is a pretty college town.  One last taste of civilization before we head into Deliverance country.  All in all a good day.  Tomorrow we start map 11 and climb into the coal country of Eastern Kentucky.

Today's milestones - we picked up our last resupply boxes, we finished map 10 and we surpassed 3,500 miles peddled. 

We passed this old wall today. It looks like it has been there forever. I could see Union or Confederate soldiers taking cover behind it

Herrington Lake from the bridge as we pass over

We are seeing more barn quilts. They decorate barns and other buildings and are based on family designs (similar to tartans in Scotland). I love them. Don't own a barn but maybe will put one on our cabin.

Erik riding through the canopy

The road we were on was so lightly used there was moss growing on it. All the recent rain had the greens popping. Loved it and the miles were easy there.

Paint Lick Kentucky fire station - guessing there is an ATV with a hose in there

Solidago offered these great local favorites for lunch in little old Paint Lick

I had the Italian Sausage and Grits (tasty). Also, check out the cool table. Really a pleasant surprise to find this nice a place in a one street town. 😀

Passed this late in the day and it had me thinking of home

Another beautiful barn quilt

Looking down the tracks reminded me of single point perspective in drawing

Entrance to the Boone Inn and Tavern with historical plaque (The Mulberry Inn has the same historic designation)

Day 70 - 49 miles to Booneville

Today got off to a good start.  We got up early and headed over to the historic Boone Tavern Hotel for breakfast.  After some nice French toast we were off into the Appalachians.  Berea was a beautiful college town and the surrounding area was also nice.  The initial climb into the Appalachians was long but not as steep as we feared and passed behind us without incident.   The woods around us are vibrant and there are creeks and streams (many swollen from the rain).  Even with the climbs, I do better when I am surrounded by moving water and big trees - maybe it's Fung Shui :).  In any case the miles went by smoothly and we landed in Booneville around 2:30.  We had lunch at the local diner (pork tenderloin and a strawberry shake) and then headed over to the "hostel".  We have experienced a wide variety of hostels so far but all have been inside.  The hostel in Booneville is a pavilion outside so protection from the rain but not much else.  Good thing we kept all our camping kit when we sent the box home in Berea.  Hoping I can sleep well Cowboy camping on a picnic table.  So day one of the Appalachians is complete; the climbs are big but worth it for the great scenery.  Also interesting, the hostel we are in was under 2-3 feet of water just a few days ago during all the flooding.   See pictures below as the creek was up 10-15 feet.  Glad we were not here then.  More rain coming this week so prayers we get through okay and there is no more flooding. 

Today's milestone - finished 70 days on trail (only 15 left)

Sunrise over Berea

The historic Boone Inn and Tavern

Erik enjoying his favorite - French Toast - before we start the days peddling

Hard to see but there is a rafter of wild turkeys running across this field

The climbs were big as was the deck furniture

Seeing lots of these in Kentucky - white ones and pink ones

Today's big climb takes us through this gap up into the Appalachians

Erik pushing up the hill

Everything in Oregon was Lewis and Clark, initially Kentucky was all Abraham Lincoln and now everything is Daniel Boone

This is the creek bed by our hostel. Note how high the mud lines go up the ivy. That shows the high water mark from the rains a few days ago. The hostel and the road were both under several feet of water. Crazy.

Our would be roommate for the night - I "evicted" him :)

Day 71 - 46 miles to Hazard

Today was a humbling day as we rode through the area impacted by the devastating floods.  It started early as the cowboy camping did not go well - humidity, bugs and the fear of rolling off the picnic table all conspired to minimize sleep.  We ran up to the BP station to get ice and use the facilities and were on road by 7:15.  Our first goal was Buckhorn which was 18 miles from Booneville.  We started seeing signs of the flooding before we got to town.  Mud slides, trees and power lines down and lots of debris along the high water lines of the creeks and rivers.  In town there was no power or water.  There was mud and debris piled in all the low areas and several buildings were clearly damaged.  People were running generators and trying to clean things up.  We ate a breakfast bag and started for Chavies.  The first climb out of Buckhorn was almost 1,000 feet and did the Appalachians proud.  Steep and long.  The only upside being what goes up must go down.  That big climb was followed by two smaller ones and when we pulled into Chavies I was spent.  They appeared to have power but no water so we bought a cold Gatorade and paused under a church pavilion.  It had been threatening rain all morning but when I checked at the pavilion it said the rain was two hours away.  We decided to push the 13 miles to Hazard and try to beat the rain.  As we traveled up route 28 we encountered even more severe flood damage.  Bridges out, cars flipped over or in the river and homes damaged or destroyed.   There were utility and rescue crews all over trying to restore services and repair damage.  You read about these things in the news but they have far more impact when you see them directly.   When you see a person or families life strewn along the bank of a stream.  I was grateful to have missed those terrible rains and was reminded the power of water and nature.   Prayers for those who were impacted.  We ended up in Hazard around 1 PM.  Erik got a flat ¼ mile from the hotel (so many little blessings we keep seeing).  So he was able to walk it to the room and fix it there.  Bigger day tomorrow with a lot of climb again so a shower, nap, dinner and a good night's sleep.

Today's milestone - we have peddled over 3,600 miles

Looking forward we see nothing but mountains in front so we know a big climb is coming

Kudzu starts to cover everything - reminds me of living in Atlanta 25 years ago

We see early signs of the flooding as the water undercut the road and our bike lane disappeared

Next we ran into downed power lines and utility poles down

Then we started seeing cars in the creek bed and damaged and destroyed houses

With all the shops closed in Buckhorn, we stopped at this log church built in 1907 to have a breakfast bag.

Leaving Buckhorn we passed the elementary school that had been pretty much destroyed by the flood

The scariest thing to me were these mud slides where the water just shot out of the woods clearing everything in its path

Several bridges we washed out or destroyed. It will take months for some of this damage to be repaired

It wasn't all doom and gloom today. The flowers were still blooming

The animals were still out and about

The Appalachians were still stark and beautiful

And we kept riding . . .

Day 72 - 48 Miles to Bypro

After the night cowboy camping on the picnic table I won't lie, the hotel bed felt so good.  They had the best pillows.  There was also a Walmart near by so we bought salad fixings and Fairlife chocolate milk.   We had to re-route a little this morning to avoid a road the locals all.said to avoid.  So we took a different route to Hindman along a higher larger road.  We expected to get past the flooding today but Hindman was covered in mud and debris.  We saw continued evidence of the flooding (cars in the creek, houses damaged, debris everywhere) as we wound our way to Mallie.  Many of the bridges eere covered in mud and debris but at least they were all in place.  That almost ended in Mallie.  As we turned the corner there, half the street was gone; undercut by the swollen creek.  We snuck by on the other side and made our last big climb up to Bypro.  Overall today was an easy day by Appalachian standards but above average for the entire TAT.  Tomorrow and Wednesday are both brutal days, even by Appalachian standards so doing all we can to rest and recover.   Spending the night in the Baptist church in Wheelright. Quite a blessing to have found this place. It is not listed on the TAT map and it has a shower, ice, wireless and AC so way better than the last church hostel.  Erik connected with someone on social media who got permission for us to stay here. It also has a piano and guitar so Erik is in heaven. I am gaining a greater appreciation for the charity of good people all across the country. Reading the news will have you lose faith in humanity but the news focuses on the noisy few. There are still a lot of good people out there.

Today's milestone - we have less than 600 miles left.  That used to look like a big number but now looks small

The Appalachians are intriguing in that the trees grow all over, even on the steep surfaces.

The fog clinging to the valley reminded me of misty mornings hiking the AT

The rain mixed with the growth on sheer surfaces leads to mud slides and trees coming down. This one forced us out into traffic to get around

This is the road at a low point. Asphalt is broken up and washed away. Water and mud flowing cross ways toward the creek

Passed several cars washed into the creek again today. This one is hung on a tree

With all the rain the rock walls are all weeping. This stretch reminded me a little of the Subway hike in Zion

Coming into Mallie half the road was gone - we snuck around the other side

Day 73 - 40 miles to Breaks Interstate Park, Virginia

Woot! Virginia.  Wow what a day.  Only 40 miles today but 5,000 feet of climb and we are feeling it.  Two big climbs today as we enter the teeth of the Appalachians.   Just a warm up for tomorrow's 45 miles and 6,200 feet of climb.  Ouch!   The hostel was nice and we slept in a little as a result.  After breakfast and packing it was close to 8:00.  Good news - no rain today which is good for us and good for the flood victims.  We left Bypro and hit the first big climb.  Was able to peddle through this one and enjoyed the backside (though the tight turns had me hitting the brakes more than I would like).  We pushed through the valley and hit the second big climb.  This one was steeper and being second big climb of the day, I pushed the bike up the second half.  Was waiting fir Erik near the top and he showed up with a dog in tow that he befriended on the way up.  It stayed with him almost to the top.  The flood damage us getting better.  There is still road damage and some debris but no more cars in the creek or destroyed houses.  Hopefully the rains stay away for a while and let things dry out.  The Appalachians have a character very different than the mountains of the west.  They are more rugged than high, with deciduous forests rather than pine and more moist and humid rather than arid and dry.  While I prefer the mountains and forests of the west, the Appalachians hold a special place with me and I am glad to be back among them.  We stopped in Elk Horn City for lunch around 1 PM (late start and big hills = a slower day).  From there it was just six scenic miles to the Virginia state line and the Gateway Motel near Breaks Park.  Resting hard in preparation for tomorrow - we can see the first of many climbs from our doorway.

Today's milestone - we entered Virginia,  our tenth and final state. Sooo close :)

The view from the top of our first big climb today. Memories of the AT came flooding back looking into this valley

This is from the Breaks Park overlook. Note how the recent flooding has the river muddy, swollen and churning

Several viewpoints of the Russell Fork running through the valley below us

After being in Kentucky for so long was really glad to see this sign. Our last state!p

This weird looking moth was chilling in the lobby. I can get a picture when they hold still 😏