The Beauty of the White Mountains (New Hampshire's ROUSs)

It has been a tough but WONDERFUL week as we hiked through New Hampshire's White Mountains.  We warmed up with the Carters and the Wildcats and then moved into the Presidential Range, hiking Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Washington and Monroe.  We followed that with Zealand, Garfield, Lafayette and the Fraconia ridge.  After climbing just 1 4K peak in our first week (Katahdin), we have now climbed 33 of them (more than 20 in the past week alone).  These are the ROUSs that drive many SOBOs to the sidelines as every day involves steep climbs and jolting descents. However, each day also brings stunning views and satisfying summits. 

Our journey through the Whites was aided by stays at several AMC huts.  The huts provide a bunk, breakfast and dinner to hikers.  This kept us well fed as we climbed every day and relieved the stress of finding campsites and worrying about the weather.

We pushed hard through the Whites so we took another zero day in North Woodstock, NH.  We needed it after such a hard week.

We will get our kit clean and bodies rested and then we head up Mt. Moosilauke, our last big climb in the Whites and the final ROUS.  After that the trail gets "gentler" as we head into southern NH and Vermont.  Next update should come from Killington VT in just over a week.  Until then . . .

Day 24 - our zero day in Gorham included trips to Burger King and Dunkin Donuts.  Haven't seen fast food in a month so it was actually tasty (love those Boston Creams ;)).

The Lodge is right on the AT and they shuttled us to town and Walmart to resupply

Day 25 - a lighter day as we left Gorham and headed into the Whites.  We did climb Mt. Moriah (another 4K) via side trail and were rewarded with an awesome view. Spent the night at Imp campsite where we met fellow southbounders Socrates and Frogger (a father/daughter hiking the AT together) and Colorado.  The campsite offered an amazing view across the Whites which gave us a prelude to what lay ahead.

Crossing a stream coming up out of Gorham.  The bridge is a bonus as most are rock hops or fords.

Mount Washington in the distance but getting closer every day

Erik enjoys the view while playing his uke at Imp camp site.  Little bench on this perch was a perfect spot to reflect and appreciate 

The panorama from Mt. Moriah

Day 26 - Today was a full day as we climbed the Carter range, the Wildcats and then dropped quickly into Pinkham notch.  The climbs are getting easier but Pinkham notch is the steepest section on the entire AT.  That drop wrecked my knees and I was glad to spend the night at Joe Dodge Lodge with a hot shower and a bed.

There is a ski resort on the Wildcats and a couple had their wedding at the top of the lift.  We hiked by just as the father was walking the bride down the aisle.  Expect we are in the background of several of their wedding photos :). Thought about wedding crashers but decided to move on

Stopped by Carter Notch hut (an AMC shelter) for our lunch break.  Erik and I rested, played a game of chess and snacked on a baked good before finishing the long days hike.  Amazing how a little break can refresh you.

These little caves along the trail run about 20 degrees cooler than outside and are great places to cool off.

Look (zoom) to see a mama grouse and her chicks

That little white speck is Carter Notch Hut where we took a mid-day break.  Gives a sense of verticality in the Whites.

The Carters  behind and the Wildcats in front as we crossed 5 4K peaks today 

Looking down into Pinkham Notch and our final descent (steepest on the AT)

Day 27 - left Joe Dodge and the valley to climb Mt Madison and enter the Presidentials. Rained hard last night (always comforting to be in a shelter when you hear the rain fall) but sunny today.  In fact, heat and humidity records being set across New Hampshire.  During the big climb up through the woods I literally turned into a puddle. (This desert dwellers body doesn't know how to deal with humidity.) Got a little better when we climbed above tree line and the breeze was blowing.  I love hiking and climbing above tree line and in the Alpine zones.  Lots of that coming up through the Whites.

Another refreshing water stop.  We will miss these as we drop below New England

They do bridge the bigger streams

Mt. Madison was a challenging but satisfying climb.  

Mt Adam's (left) and Mt Madison (right)

Joe Dodge Lodge far below as we climb out of Pinkham Notch (so humid)

Looking up to Madison Peak

Madison Peak (Erik took picture as I was catching up :))

A little chess break at Carter Notch Hut

Sunset at Madison

Day 28 - After a wonderful dinner and breakfast in Madison Springs Hut, we climbed through Thunderstorm Junction before summitting Mt.Adam's, Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Washington.  Pictures cannot capture the full majesty of these views.  Despite the big climbs, best day of hiking thus far - just incredible.  We had lunch on Mount Washington and called home (weak signal and call dropped:(), then hiked down to Lake of the Clouds Hut for dinner.  

Fun fact - Mount Washington set a record for its heat index (temperature + humidity) today when we summited.  Clear skies are awesome but its hot and humid. (2 nights later Mt Washington was 10 degrees with wind chill, from one extreme to another that's Mount Washington).

A Cinquefoil? Not a naturalist but think that is our new flower of the day

Above the clouds as we hike from Madison

Thunderhead Junction at the Apex of Madison, Adam's and Jefferson trails

Panorama from Mt Adams

Looking back at Adam's shows how big it really is

Almost got clipped by the Mt Washington Train as we crossed its tracks on our way to the peak

Looking.back on a great day of climbing - Madison. Adam's, Jefferson and Clay

The duo atop Mount Washington - second highest point on the AT and high point in the North.

Erik on Washington with a view of Madison, Adam's and Jefferson behind.  Best day yet with great climbs and better views

Lake of the Clouds hut, our home for this evening.

Day 29 - today is a day we have been dreading.  We have to hike 19 miles to get to our next hut.  19 miles is a long day anywhere, but in the White Mountains 19 miles is forever.  We thought it might kill us; and it nearly did.  We were blessed the last few miles were flat and smooth and that we stayed in a comfy hut.  We ended the day at Zealand Falls Hut with a great view of the Falls.

A 19 mile day means a 5:30 AM start so Mt Monroe is wrapped in early morning fog

Later in the day the fog clears revealing Mt Eisenhower and Mt Jackson, our remaining 4K climbs for today 

Looking down into Crawford Notch (yes another notch)

Erik as the AT crosses the Rail Line at the bottom of Crawford Notch

Crossing Thoreau Falls on our way to Zealand.  This picture was used the next day to confirm I had lost my beloved camp towel somewhere along this stretch :(

New flower of the day

Lower Zealand Falls

The real Zealand Falls just outside the Zealand Falls Hut

Day 30 - Happy Fourth of July! No fireworks, but thankful today was a short 7 miles as we hiked Mt. Zealand, Mt Guyot (and spur)  and finally South Twin peak (gorgeous views) on our way to Galehead Hut.  A short day but still 4 more 4Ks.  Love the ROUSs ;)  Also our one month anniversary on the trail - Giddy Up!

Erik snacking atop Mt Zealand (feed that hiker hunger)

Looking from Mt Guyot to the spur and the Bonds beyond

Panorama from South Twin.  Pictures cannot begin to capture the majesty as we look back toward the Presidential Range and forward to tomorrow's hike along the Franconia Ridge.

Day 31 - Today was supposed to be another short day with climbs up Mt. Garfield and Mt. Lafayette and saying at Greenleaf Hut.  However, we found out Greenleaf Hut is down over 1000 feet on a side trail (that means climbing back up over 1000 feet in the morning - no thank you). So, we pushed past Lafayette and did the full Franconia Ridge and Notch ending our 16 mile day at Lonedome Lake Hut.  Though the day was long, it was massively rewarding as the views from Lafayette and the Ridge were gorgeous and much of the hike was in the breeze above tree line.

PS -  I have learned to fear the word "notch" which apparently is AT code for precipitous drop into a valley.

Erik on Garfield Mountain , Mt Lafayette (in the background) is our next climb 

Think the yellow one is new - someone keep me honest ;)

Atop Mt Lafayette looking back toward Zealand and Garfield 

Atop Lafayette looking across toward Lincoln 

Hiking along the Franconia Ridge 

As we trend south the trail starts interacting with civilization 

Panorama from Mt Lafayette - gorgeous day

Panorama from Mt. Lincoln.  What an amazing day

Day 32 - today we pushed 14 miles over the Kinsman range and down Kinsman Notch (oh yes, another notch) to take a zero day in North Woodstock. Rained hard last night (heard it from the comfort of Lonesome Lakes Hut) making today a wet and windy one.

Even when gloomy these mountain streams inspire and refresh 

Erik in the gloom atop South Kinsman peak.  Views are usually great but not today.  No complaints though after the awesome weather we had through most of the Whites

Highlight of the day was hiking a few miles along a cascading mountain stream 

Another serenading cascade . . .

We saw many of these blow downs along the trail.  Soil builds up on top of the rocks and small trees sprout.  Over time the trees grow bigger.  At some point the tree gets too big for its limited root base and the wind blows the whole thing over.  A life lesson is maintaining proper balance;)

We find many new flowers by road sides and today was no exception.  As we exited the AT onto NH route 112 on our way to Woodstock we found several new blooms

Day 33 - a zero day in Woodstock NH allow us to resupply and gives an old body time to recover from the abuse :)

Picked up our resupply from the Post Office in Woodstock NH and was delighted with the art work and messages decorating the boxes.  Love you Rachel :)!

Inn 32, our home in Woodstock, offers some annuals that are new for us

And a bed of native NH wildflowers 

They always brighten my day . . .