Racking up some frequent hiker miles
- Scott

- Aug 24, 2018
- 9 min read
This update comes from Boiling Springs Pennsylvania. We made it through New York, New Jersey and most of Pennsylvania in just over two weeks. There has been a lot of rain which clouded or fogged most of the views in NY and NJ (disappointing as many NOBOs claimed these were good sections). Many areas in Pennsylvania are over 200% average rainfall and we hope for better weather as we head into Virginia where the scenery and summits are more like the Whites.
We averaged over 20 miles per day as the trail levelled out a bit, our trail legs returned and our feet improved (actually hiked 156 miles this past week). However, there are a lot of rocks in this section which added a different challenge (especially when they get wet from the rain :().
With our aggressive pace, we passed the 800, 900 and 1000 mile marks over these two weeks with each milestone providing encouragement. Our next major milestone is the halfway point at Pine Grove Furnace. Just before that we plan to jump down to Washington DC for a few days with Peggy and Rachel.
Next update will be coming from beautiful Virginia as Maryland and West Virginia are both short states. Here are some pictures and daily details:
Day 65 - we left the Bear Mountain Inn and hiked a few miles of pristine trail over Bear and West mountains. This section is super maintained as an example of proper trail design. It was awesome and I can only imagine if the entire AT was this well designed and maintained. After a few miles it was back to roots and rocks, but it was a nice experience.

This is the view across Hessian Lake in Bear Mountain park as we left in the morning

An indoor Merry Go Round - Rachel would love it

This is how the entire AT should be ;) - was nice to experience a few miles of perfectly groomed trail climbing over Bear Mountain

Looking down on the Hudson as we climb Bear Mountain

One of the more artistic trail markers

Tower at the top of Bear Mountain

View from Bear Mountain

And then from West Mountain

This is looking back at the tower on Bear Mountain (may need to zoom). Having been in the big tower that morning and seeing how small it appears now in the afternoon provides good perspective on how many miles we are now traveling each day

A two point buck we passed late in the day.

The Lemon Squeezer was a tough little section including a little slot canyon. Nothing like Escalante, but still fun

Dinner tonight was a 24" pizza. That is ridiculously large and the box barely fit through the door. Even with hiker hunger we could only eat 5 of the 8 humungous slices
Day 66 - after hiding from the rain at the Tuxedo motel (well earned after a 20 mile day) we did 22 miles to pass from NY to NJ and stay at the Wayanda Shelter.

These were a great way to start the morning of right (and bright)

A soothing cascade - with so much rain the falls and cascades have new life

The Bellvale Farm had the BEST ice cream (a mint chip shake is like rocket fuel for this hiker). The view from their patio was gorgeous overlooking the township of Warwick, NJ

Looking down on Greenwood Lake

Loved this makeshift flag pole

Erik captured this view near the NY/NJ line

The transition from NY to NJ was the least impressive so far but still excited to enter our seventh state
Day 67 - our hike today took us to Unionville NY for a mail drop and some garlic knots. We spent the night at a "farm house" owned by a former thru hiker that he opens for thru hikers to camp. Well water was cold, clear and delicious. Rained again that night so good to have a roof overhead.

A New Jersey I did not know existed - farms and a countryside

Another bright wake up call

We hiked through miles of fens on.land bridges and thankfully on long boardwalks (cannot imagine slogging through miles of muck)

I liked the yellow and white combination on this one

Thought this was rape seed but I was wrong :(

Another beatiful new flower -

This is the farm house we sheltered in over night. Had no furniture or cooling but did have power

An Irish family joined us for the night. The kids are 8 and 10 years old and they are averaging almost 25 miles a day (what!). Together we look like a scene from Grapes of Wrath

Erik found these huge turtles in.one of the fens we crossed. They are about 16-18 inches long.
Day 68 - we left early for the Gren Anderson shelter as we expect more rain tonight. NOBOs are thinning out but lots of day hikers. We got to the shelter just as the rain started to fall. Another SOBO cooked a gourmet chicken and cheese pizza (from scratch) and was kind enough to share.

Given all the rain, I found the umbrella themed AT symbol fitting

Rainy weather tends to diminish the views (too bad as several NOBOs commented they were worthwhile)

Found this sign humorous. If the lack of any white blazes didn't tip you off, this sigm confirms it - *This is not the AT"

The CCC built a cabin atop Brian Head peak near our home in Utah and this one atop Sunrise Mountain, though bigger, has a similar look and feel

I used sticks to mark a turn for Erik (he didn't even notice it :().
Day 69 - today we hike to the Mohican Outdoor Center, a hut/lodge run by the AMC which offers us a bunk and a good meal. The weather has been tough with lots of rain but we have been blessed with well placed shelters and inns to stay dry at night.

The rain drops stuck to this huge spider web making it look like a crystal design

The Catfish Fire Tower was the tallest fire tower we climbed. Got a little sketchy near the top

This little guy was hiding by the side of the trail

A beautiful vista as we hiked toward the Delaware Water Gap

The panorama from Catfish Fire Tower

We treed this big porcupine late in our hike
Day 70 - after pushing over 100 miles in the last 5 days and with more rain falling we took a Nero and hiked 12 miles into Water Gap, Pennsylvania. We hit the outfitter for new wool socks and repairs to our trekking poles - both well overdue. And, we crossed into Pennsylvania our eighth state.

The rock garden is cool but another gloomy day (keeps it cooler and keeps the bugs away but the views get lost :))

Hard to see but these cairns lead out into a pond (kind of a lost city look)

Even though the hills are now only 1200 - 1500 feet, the clouds come right down on these rainy days

What? Pennsylvania already - Yes! And almost 900 miles completed.

The AT runs right along I-80. I mean right beside it so the semi trucks sprayed us with wind and water

Water Gap is a declared a trail town as it sits right on the AT. A night at the deer head inn gets us out of the rain with a nice pasta dinner.

Our room had no TV but awesome antiques that created a nice ambiance
Day 71 - With more heavy rain expected we head out early for Wind Gap. This stop has special significance as I grew up near by and first experienced the AT near Wind Gap.

The Deer Head Inn as we leave early for the trail - was good shelter from the rain in Water Gap

Was cool hiking through the fog this morning

Saw this little Harry Potter stone tucked by a tree along the trail

A weird multi-colored fungus growing on this tree

After stopping in Wind Gap, we took a quick trip to my childhood home in nearby Nazareth. Was interesting to see what hadn't changed and what had in 40+ years

Add a bunny to our wildlife list
Day 72 - we actually have a dry night so we push 21 miles to the George Outerbridge Shelter just past the Lehigh River so we can tent up. This day also brought us down Blue Mountain, the steepest descent in Pennsylvania with echoes of Maine.

This picture of the trail shows how rocky the trail in Pennsylvania is

The rain has been constant but it makes you appreciate the sun when it comes out

Scenes like this make it all worth it

These grow in the fields and fens

A utility corridor opened up the Pennsylvania countryside


Erik dropping over the top of Blue Mountain and onto the boulder climb

This guest joined us at George Outerbridge Shelter - needless to say we slept in our tents

This critter was on my tent when I was heading to bed
Day 73 - today was a little drier so we hiked 24 miles to the Eckville shelter. This shelter has a care taker, cold shower, flush toilet and power so worth the extra miles. Also, tonight is the first night SOBOs outnumbered NOBOs at a shelter (Kiwi Legs, Squeaky and Machine joined Erik and I vs just 2 NOBOs.)

The local sign for Bake Oven Knob

Pennsylvania farms

Panorama from Bake Oven Knob
Day 74 - We stopped short in Port Clinton after 15 miles as our resupply package won't arrive until tomorrow. We took a quick shuttle to the worlds largest Cabelas and after taking advantage of their cafe's hot dog bar we booked the night at the Union House B&B (conveniently across the street from the PO). While they didn't actually serve breakfast, it was a nice room keeping us dry from yet another rainy night. They also served a delicious dinner and Erik had the opportunity to perform a song on his ukelele for the patrons.

A hidden waterfall

There are so many rocks in Pennsylvania the cairns are enormous

Too many views have been clouded in mist. Hoping for better weather in Virginia.

The AT is over 80 years old

Not the prettiest but new
Day 75 - Another 24 mile day took.us to another care taker shelter - 501 shelter. This shelter actually had take out delivery from a near by town so Erik ordered pizza and I had a calzone. Rocks were supposed to be better south of Port Clinton but they were not. Pennsylvania has been a tough experience with the rocks and rain.

Leaving Port Clinton

This was a bright surprise on a dreary day

A little history on the trail. This time from the French and Indian War

A sneak peek through the gas corridor
Day 76 - today was a tough one with rocks and rain but we pushed through for 22 miles and ended up tenting at Yellow Springs; the remains of an old coal town they say are haunted. We did not see any ghosts but did get another full dose of rain all night :(. Not bad when you are in.the tent but hard when packing up in the morning.

Clear to see who was on trail right before we were. We did not see the bear but followed the tracks for almost a mile

This was a cool iron and wood footbridge over Swatara Creek (though the boards we slick and slippery due to so much rain)

Not a new flower but so many of them

This one is new (though quite small)

Bigger and brighter

A beaver dam + too much rain equals 200 yards of underwater trail. About 6-8 inches deep.

No spell checker at the local sign maker. "APPALACHAIN" really?
Day 77 - the rain got us off to a slow start but we still pushed through 25 miles to get to Duncannon and a hotel. The prospect of italian food, a shower and a roof over head motivated us to get there. The rocks finally diminished after we took a "breakfast bag" break at Darlington Shelter. So NICE to have smoother trail though all the rain has left it muddy.

Loved this campsite with the stone chairs around the firepit. Flintstones furniture

Thinking this is where the Keebler elves bake those cookies

The rain does bring growth and flowers

I love the two tone models

Flower?

Pennsylvania from the footbridge crossing I-81

Heading down to cross the Susquehanna River

You know who I was thinking of when we crossed this street heading into Duncannon

Saw three of these beauties sunny on the rocks today

And this bad boy shook his rattle at me until I backed off. Did not see him until I was almost on.top.of him - got my attention in a hurry
Day 78 - another 25 miles brought us from Duncannon to Boiling Springs. From there we took.a shuttle back to Harrisburg from which we head to Washington DC for a few days with Peggy and Rachel.

May have snapped this one before but worth a second look

Two tone . . .

Erik emerged from an underpass as we navigate the many Pennsylvania highways

The AT leases adjacent land to farmers - here they are growing beans and corn

Is that a tri-tone? Either way, was a ray of color on a dreary day

These signs needed to be posted all across northern Pennsylvania. Not sure why this spot in particular merited the sign

An old cemetary along the AT. The trail crosses many old towns and forts that have long since been abandoned

Erik could not get this guy to come out of his bright yellow shell

Whereas this one is a little blurry because he was moving so fast (okay because the camera was wet)
Day 79 - 83 in Washington DC so good to see Peggy and Rachel for a few days, rest the feet and dry out our kit.

Spiral stairs at SCOTUS

In front of SCOTUS

In front of the Capitol Building. Heading to Smithsonian and the Zoo next. It is wonderful that these resources are available for free and we enjoyed them all (especially the zoo and the air and space museum). We also had a quick visit with Rob Zulandi, his wife and his happy and cute new baby boy. Has been nice to see family, friends and sites for these few days before we head back onto the trail.
The pleasant distraction ends quickly as we return to the trail Monday, finishing Pennsylvania with the half gallon challenge at Burning Furnace State Park and then quick jaunts through Maryland and West Virginia.
Stay tuned. . .




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