The Splendor of Shenandoah

After almost a month at lower elevation we are excited to be climbing higher again.  Won't be hitting 4Ks for a while but we get close on the peaks along Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park.

I was struggling with the mental aspects of the hike as we ground through southern New England and the mid-Atlantic states.  There were many miles but not much too see and the weather and trail conditions were tough. Seeing Peggy and Rachel provided a big lift and I returned to the trail energized and with a better attitude.  I realized thisj ourney will be over before I know it; so I need to savor each day no matter the conditions (little life lesson there . . .)

Hitting Harpers Ferry provided another big lift.  It was a significant psychological milestone; seeing the quaint historic town, visiting the ATC headquarters and registering our SiBO hike reminded me why we came out here.  That quickly led us to Virginia where we return to climbs, altitude and views.  I am a definitely a better (happier) hiker in the mountains (I get really ecstatic above tree line ;)).

Virginia has over 500 miles of trail and we already hiked 145 miles of it.  Our increased pace has things moving faster which is another reason to mentally "slow down" and enjoy the moments along the way.  We look forward to what central and southern Virginia have to offer (the Priest and McAfee Knob are both on the agenda). Next update should be from Daleville, Virginia around September 17.  In the meantime, everyone pray Florence heads out to sea rather than making landfall in the Southeast.  That would be excitement we do not need.

Day 90 - we left Harpers Ferry after a great night and a good visit with energy and anticipation.  We hiked 20 miles to the Bears Den Hostile.  We stopped by the Horseshoe Curve Restaurant for dinner just as it started raining.  After a good meal and a game of chess the owner drove us to the hostile so we wouldn't get wet (nice guy;)). The hostile offered a hit shower and warm bunk during the rainy night.  During today's hike we also entered the famed Roller Coaster; a 15 mile stretch of ups and downs.  We only have to finish 5 miles of it before we hit Bears Den.

The morning started crossing the Shenandoah River (right as it merges with the Potomac)

Love these misty mornings as we head out early.  Getting an early start is highly correlated to having a good day

We moved from Swallowtails to Monarchs

A joke "Warning" sign from the trail crew as we enter the Roller Coaster 

View from Raven Rocks - curious who lives at the remote house across the valley

Pothos and Nix cross from West Virginia into Virginia.  Our 11th state on the AT and more than 1200 miles from the start at Mt. Katahdin

Day 91 - a day without rain is an opportunity to make miles.  I have come to love the foggy forest mornings where the mist keeps things a little cooler and also keeps the snakes and bugs off the trail.  I got up early and made pancakes for Erik, myself and Willow (a flip/flopper we met on her way North and who met us again when she came back through Harpers Ferry). With a full belly and an early start we made 23 miles to Manassas Gap Shelter.

The Bears Den Lodge as we left after a nice pancake breakfast 

We loved this log book entry about thru hikers that we saw during a break at Rod Hollow shelter 

After 15 miles of constant up and down trails we finally exit the Roller Coaster and return to more reasonable grade 

We had a late break by this spring along the trail in Sky Meadows State Park

Not sure these are new but they are beautiful and had me thinking of home 

Day 92 - today we have a short 10 miles to The Mountain Home B&B (run by former thru hikers). Good to have a short day to get rested and resupplied.  We recieved another resupply box and now have SO much food.  We are hiking faster than I planned and eating in diners more.  As a result, my original supply plan is sending too much food.  We need to turn off the spigot as it adds weight.  The day was sunny, hot and humid (over 90 degrees), so a good day to knock off miles.  Had dinner in Front Royal at a delicious Thai restaurant and then had home made ice cream for dessert; was delicious!  Also heard they have blackberry shakes at the Elk Hallow wayside, mile 19 tomorrow - excited to enter Shenandoah.

Just budding, but new for us

Enjoying excellent Thai food in Front Royal Virginia 

Day 93 - trail is well groomed in the National Park so we made some good miles.  We also got back to higher elevations which we like.  Climbed Mount Marshall and got over 3000 feet for the first time since Graylock in northern Massachusetts.  Bummer for the day was the shake maker at the Wayside was broken.  Settled for a grilled ham and cheese and a dish of ice cream.  After the wayside snack we ended up stealth camping with strange animal sounds keeping us company all night.

Loved this "You are here" map on the Trail Board coming into Shenandoah.  Does show how much progress we made since Maine.  Giddy Up!

Though not this nice everywhere, the trail in Shenandoah is so smooth and well maintained - my feet are happier ;)

The trail markers in Shenandoah use cement posts with the trail names and distances etched into the metal band near the top

Big and bright yellow 

Erik at the top of Mount Marshall - not that exciting other than it took us over 3K feet for the first time in over a month

Things in Virginia are more like NH where you can see what you will climb next.  This is Hogback, our next climb today

Peeking through the canopy to see the Virginia countryside 

Looking down from Hogback Mountain 

This panorama was from a rock cliff along the ridgeline.  Sunny days make for better views.

Day 94 - after 21 miles yesterday we took it a bit easier and hiked 16 miles to the Skyline Resort.  We will miss the breakfast buffet in the AM (weekends only :() but did get their famous blackberry ice cream pie :). Lots of climbing today as we crossed Mary's Rock, Pinnacle and Stony Man Mountain (3973 feet - so close to a 4K). Hot and humid but switchbacks make the climbs easier that up North.

Saw this bizarre tree while on a break at Pass Mountain Hut (oh yes, we climbed Pass Mountain today as well).

When the ridgeline breaks the canopy we get great views of the surrounding Virginia countryside 

Looking down on Virginia from Stony Man Mountain

Panorama from Mary's Rock

Panorama from Pinnacle 

Panorama from Old Stony 

Day 95 - Rain returning this weekend so we made as many miles as we could in the sunshine today. Got an early start and it was a perfect day for hiking (cooler, less humid with a slight breeze). In fact, we enjoyed the hiking so much, we hiked right past a wayside without stopping for a snack (that never happens). We ended up hiking 28.5 miles (our longest day) and even then I was disappointed when we saw the shelter.  So few beautiful hiking days, did not want it to end.  We did tent at Hightop Hut where we had dinner and then went to bed.

A beautiful view of the Shenandoah down into Virginia highlighting the great weather today

Every do often the trail opens onto a rock ledge offering a view of the countryside below

Another example of why today was a great hiking day combining good weather and good views

We took a lunch break at this stealth camping spot on top of Bearfence Rock

Many climbs today but the grade is gentler, the trail smoother and the views keep coming

View from Hightop

In Shenandoah they mark summits with little signs on cement posts vs. the big summit signs in Maine and NH

Day 96 - with rain threatening we need to make a hut tonight so we hike 21.5 miles to Raven Rock Hut.  We get lucky as the rain did not start until we reached the hut making another good hiking day.  We also had the hut to ourselves which is unusual. On the downside, my beloved Klymit V sleeping pad sprung another leak :( and will need to be replaced at the outfitter in Waynesboro.

The weather was threatening early making a foggy horizon in the morning

I caught this three point making his way down trail

I used this trail art to let Erik (Nix) know I had taken the side trail to take a break in the shelter (he missed it and hiked on by me)

This black snake was looking down from the shelter rafters as I ate my snack.  Is it any wonder we only sleep in shelters when we absolutely have to

I caught up with Erik at this awesome water spot.  Just gorgeous and serene 

Erik caught this view from Ivy Creek Overlook

Erik then found another bizarre bug - anyone know what this is?

As the day wore on the clouds were building 

Then the cumulus joined in

One way to escape the clouds is to climb above them as we did climbing over High Top Mountain 

The view from High Top was awesome (even on a cloudy day)

The summit marker

The view coming down the other side.  About an hour later those clouds were overhead delivering rain but we were comfortably in the shelter by then.

Day 97 - The day started off well with another early start and decent weather.  The rain cooled things down but was not falling.  It was another cool misty morning.  Our plan was to hike 21 miles to Waynesboro, Virginia where we will stay at the Stanimal 328 Hostel.  Our luck ran out as we were hit by a monsoon around 2 PM and hiked the last 5 miles through trail flooded by creeks and waterfalls as the water fell in sheets.  We hit the trail head soaked to the bone and with pruny, numb hands.  We hid under a national park sign to gain some shelter from the rain and wind and were able to call a shuttle to the Hostel.  A hot shower and hot meal quickly restored spirits.  Good night to be indoors as rain continues to fall.

BlackRock Shelter as we leave in the morning 

Erik with the cairns I placed by the shelter side trail.   He did see these ;)

A huge hornet's nest right on the trail.  We passed by quickly and carefully 

Every once in a while the pine trees take over and cover the trail with their needles.  This results in a soft cushioned feeling that my feet love.  Sadly these pine areas are rare.

More ominous clouds as we take a mid-day break at Sawmill Run Overlook

Have come to love these foggy trails.  Erik is hardly visible as he passes the large cairn ahead.

A haggard looking Pothos atop Little Calf Mountain. Despite constantly eating, have now lost 25 pounds.   Need to find more calories as cannot afford to lose much more 

Erik making his way through a meadow stock 

A new flower in Virginia 

This strange "amphitheater" with a central speaker post surrounded by metal seats was isolated atop Calf Mountain.  No clear purpose, maybe nature talks?

Caught this picture of communications towers just before the monsoon hit.  Rain fell in sheets so no more pictures, just a mad dash for the trail head and hostel.

Day 98 - our resupply package is captive in the Waynesboro post office which doesnt open until 9 AM Monday.  As today is Sunday, we are stuck and must take a zero day.  Given it is raining all day, not a terrible thing.  Will use the time to fix equipment and rest our legs/feet.  The forecast is for rain all week :( and Hurricane Florence may make landfall near Virginia really soaking us.  Let's all pray the storm heads out to sea and things dry up in Virginia.

Stanimal 328 is the hostel we stayed at in Waynesboro.  It is run by a thru hiker so has laundry, snacks, bunks, showers - all the amenities a hiker needs.  He runs a second hostel in Glasgow that we hope to visit in a few days.