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The Final Chapter

  • Writer: Scott
    Scott
  • Oct 28, 2018
  • 10 min read

Our final week went quickly with better weather until the last few days.  The bottom of North Carolina and the top of Georgia were rooty and rocky and full of steep climbs (reminders of our early days in Maine), but our trail legs and desire to finish kept us moving at a fast pace. We saw rain coming late in the week and hoped to beat it.  However,  we fell a day short as it rained the day we summited Springer; a fitting end given all the rain we experienced during the trip. While the weather was frustrating, it also added to our satisfaction.  We not only completed a SOBO thru hike, we finished in a year with record rain and humidity and one of the highest thru hiker drop out rates on record. Finishing in an especially difficult year makes accomplishing our thru hiking goal even more gratifying. It is hard to believe our adventure is over. Those first few miles back in Maine are so clear in my mind though feel like a lifetime ago. There were times I thought this hike would never end (Pennsylvania:)) and now it is ending too soon. Those first steps down Katahdin made in reverence and excitement were matched by the last few steps on Springer where the excitement was mixed with sadness. Though harder than I expected, I am glad we did the hike and grateful we had the opportunity. The experience was far more rewarding than expected and in ways that surprised me. 

All the planning and preparation paid dividends as we ate well, had dependable equipment and a well balanced journey. However, planning and preparation cannot mitigate every condition as plenty of unexpected challenges remained.  The physical demands on joints and feet were more extreme than expected and went far beyond simple endurance. The weather was difficult with long periods of heat, humidity, rain and flooding. We endured two hurricanes and multiple heat advisories. While these conditions made our hike more difficult, it turned out the hardest part was leaving my wife and daughter for so long (I still remember them both waving good bye as Erik and I hiked into the Maine woods). The only time I doubted we would finish was that first week in the wilderness because I missed them so much. Now, just a few days from seeing them again, that prospect is as exciting as our finish. I look forward to taking Rachel Trick-or-treating (she has been waiting), taking Peggy on a cruise (she deserves it) and seeing my growing set of grandkids before  jumping into my next adventure. I am sure it will take time for me to fully process and understand this complete experience.  As I sat on a wet and windy Springer Mountain, I was excited, rewarded and satisfied; what an epic adventure!  Being away from the noise of the world. I grew closer to my son, to nature and to my God. It changed my perspective on life and helped me better understand what is truly important; there are many things I will no longer take for granted.  I remain grateful for the experience and all that I learned.  I am anxious to build on that foundation; setting my next ambitious goal and going after it!

Here is a summary of our last week on trail. 

Day 137 - we climbed up out of Stecoah Gap just to plummet down to the Nantahala Outdoor Center and then back up to Wesser Bald Shelter.  Rain coming tonight so we want to be in a shelter.  When we got there it was full :( so we slept on the ground under the shelters deck.  Got splashed a bit but generally stayed dry. All part of the "full" AT experience.

Erik works his way through some blow down

View from Cheoah Bald (5,052 feet)

The clouds form in the lower valleys below us creating wondrous views

Captured this panorama from the peak of the bald

A view of the Nantahala River from the "Jump Up", a rocky outcrop along the AT

The trail gets steeper and rockier as we head into the bottom of North Carolina and top of Georgia 

The kayak course at the Nantahala Outdoor Center.  Lots of fun activities here but we only had time for lunch

View on our climb toward the shelter on Wesser Bald (4,619 feet)

The view from the climb looks all the way back to Fontana Lake and dam (34 miles behind us now)

A look toward the bald we will summit tomorrow 

Erik captured a shot of the Sumac that grew along the trail - pretty but do not touch

Day 138 - the rain kept falling until 10 AM so we got a late start.  We then had to hurry.  A shuttle is picking us up at Winding Stair to take us into Franklin, NC at 6 PM.   Winding Stair is 21 miles away with a few big climbs in the middle.  We kept a healthy pace to make the shuttle and stayed at Baltimore Jack's Hostel (named for a 9 time thru hiker).  After a boneless wings dinner at the local sports bar, we made a death defying hike to Walmart to get stove fuel

(No sidewalk or street lights with lots of oncoming traffic). Otherwise, an uneventful evening.  We did run into Kidska again, a flip/flopper heading South as well.

There are several memorials along the AT

Another perfectly healthy tree with almost no trunk left

A bit of Fall for us to hike through - reminded me of taking leaves as a kid

The viewing tower atop Wayah Bald

This is my view from Wayah Bald Tower 

And Erik captured this view from the top of the Tower (5,338 feet)

Another view from Wayah Bald - so appreciative for sunny weather and some views

It was getting late, cold and windy when we topped Siler Bald but the views were worth the extra side trip

Our view from Siler Bald (5,216 feet)

Another view from Siler Bald

Erik hiking down from Siler Bald

A nice cascade near our pick up point at Winding Stair 

Day 139 - today was SUNNY;) and an easier day with lower grade.  We hiked 18 miles to the camp site at Beech Gap (dry days mean we are not forced to stay near shelters).  While it is dry it is also COLD.  Went from Summer to Winter over night after Hurricane Michael blew through.  Night and morning temperatures are in the 30's which tests our gear (especially with no gloves). Good thing we have less than a week left.  We passed 2100 miles today - last 100 before we finish.

We took a quick break at Rocky Gap Shelter 

Our big climb today is Albert Mountain 

The view from the mountain was far ranging on a sunny day

A great panorama from the fire tower atop Albert Mountain 

Erik enjoying a sun nap near Albert Mountain peak

The fire tower atop Albert Mountain (5,151 feet)

A view into the valley as we pass a break in the canopy

Day 140 - another cold morning means a later start.  We left camp around 10 AM and had breakfast atop Standing Indian Mountain (5,479 feet) while soaking in some sun.  We then hit the trail hard to complete a 22 mile day and get to Top of Georgia hiking center before they closed.  We can do laundry and have some shelter from the cold.  Although we can afford to back off a bit our hiking legs want to go so we still do around 20 miles per day.  Shoulpld get us to Springer by October 26 or 27.

Our morning started with a healthy climb up Standing Indian Mountain, a great way to warm up on a cold morning

This was our view for breakfast atop Standing Indian Mountain 

The blazes are consistent though the trail signs change state by state

Do not want to offend, but loved this trail name so had to include it :)

A view down into Georgia .  . . our final state

Soon after we made the transition into our fourteenth and final state as we pass from NC into Georgia.  Less than 80 miles left! 

This tree root rotted out, filled with soil and became a natural planter. Sunlight makes the picture poor but trust me it wa cool looking ;)

Day 141 - after a nice night in a hostel (hot shower, clean clothes and a surprisingly good pizza from a box) we take on a challenging day with 19 miles across the toughest grade since NH and three big climbs (Kelly Knob (4,144 feet), Tray Mountain (4,400 feet) and Blue Mountain (4,009 feet)) to make our way to Blue Mountain Shelter.  Some section hikers had a great fire going which kept us warm until we tucked into our sanctuaries (tents) for the night.

We finally found a new flower - even as Fall turns to Winter in the Georgia mountains 

The view from Powell Mountain vista

Tray Mountain Shelter served for second breakfast today.  It is so cold in the mornings we start hiking until it warms up and then have breakfast.  

PS - Still love breakfast bag after all these mornings.

Instead of painting the blaze on the tree they painted the blaze on a board and then nailed the board to the tree.  Why????

The view from Tray Mountain 

We saw this duck taking a break from his migration and chilling near the trail

View from Rocky Mountain (3,993 feet)

The view looking back as we climb Blue Mountain 

This Georgia ATC marker says Georgia to Maine but we all know the AT runs from Maine to Georgia 

With no winter gear we need to improvise.  Erik has turned his woolen shirt into a turban. his kerchief into a mask and socks into gloves.  Luckily there are only a few cold mornings left.

Day 142 - a second 19 mile day takes us to Neel's Gap and the Mountain Crossing Hostel.  It was an easier day than yesterday and knowing we had a hostel waiting motivated our steps.  Mountain Crossing is right on the AT and offered a free pizza and hot chocolate to SOBO thru hikers.  It was awesome.

The view looking back as we climb Poor Mountain (3,622 feet)

Erik on Cowrock Mountain (3,809 feet) enjoying a gorgeous view

The views today were the best in Georgia.  Looking out from Levelland Mountain (3,882 feet)

Not sure what motivates people to set these up but I knew Rachel would like it ;)

Day 143 - we have just 31 miles left and will conquer half of that today as we climb Blood Mountain (our last 4K climb) and hike 15 miles to Gooch Mountain Shelter (rain coming again so we need a shelter).

The AT runs right through the middle of Mountain Crossing Hostel.  Being in an on-trail hostel let us get off to an earlier start on a cold morning.  Rain was coming and we wanted to be settled in the shelter before it started.

This tree at Mountain Crossing is covered with old hiking boots and shoes

The early morning views climbing up Blood Mountain (4,442 feet) were amazing with pinks and purples

Captured this view as the trail opened up on a rocky climb near the top of Blood Mountain 

This view was a little higher; could not get enough of it

The shelter atop Blood Mountain 

Standing on our last 4K Mountain (4,442 feet).

Looking over the other side from the peak

Such a good view had to get a panorama 

View from Big Cedar Ledges where we had a pop tart break

View from Ramrock Mountain 

The valleys are getting more developed as we approach Springer

Day 144 - our last day with just 16 miles left to the ATs southern terminus at Springer Mountain.  Mentally I am excited and physically my body is ready to be done (especially my knees).  The climb up Springer is 1,400 feet but the balance of the day is a gentle saw tooth.  It rained hard last night and continued raining into the morning. A fitting send off from the AT on one of the wettest and most humid years on record.  Rain notwithstanding, we are excited to reach Springer Mountain and finish our thru hike today!

A little more Fall to start the day

The rain swelled the creeks reminding us of early crossings in Maine 

And fed the waterfalls like Long Creek Falls

Initially the trail up to Springer was like a highway

But as we got closer to the peak . . .

It got rockier and steeper . . .

But the rain and grade did not dampen our enthusiasm as we saw that last blaze and the plaques at the summit. We were done - GIDDY UP!

The last time I hiked to this plaque was 1995 when I lived in Atlanta and dreamed of doing an AT thru hike.  Memories of those younger days flooded my mind as I returned to this spot, having completed that thru hike, almost 25 years later.

A fitting place to celebrate the end of our epic adventure - Springer Mountain peak (3,782 feet)

Mentally I am thrilled and satisfied, physically my knees are hurting and ready to be done.  Mixed emotions, dominated by joy, satisfaction and a deep desire to go home and see my family. 

The dynamic duo atop their last peak -after hiking 2,191 miles, climbing over  510,000 feet and spending over four months on the Appalachian Trail.

We place our pebble from the "BamaHiker" memorial atop Springer so the spirit of BamaHiker reaches the end of the AT with us.

The view from Springer was fogged out - but we reached the plaques and finished our journey, that is what mattered most.

The "Approach Trail" leads from Springer peak down to Amicoloa Falls visitors center.

There is a shelter at the peak but the rain and cold convince us to head down to the Visitors Center tonight 

The approach trail exits to the park and visitors center where we get a free ice cream (thru hiker perk ;)) and a shelter to stay dry during our last night.

Day 145 - Epilogue.  After sleeping in the shelter through another rainy night we reflect on our experiences as we wait for a shuttle to Atlanta.  No hiking today, for the first time in a long time.  Feels wrong but my knees are happier;). Trying to let it all soak in and realizing that will take time.  Part of me still thinks this is just a zero and we will start hiking again tomorrow.  But another part knows that chapter is now over and is excited to get home to see Peggy and Rachel.

This is the shelter where we spent our last night by the Amicalola Visitors Center

Loved that this marker said, "Maine to Georgia" even though it was at the Georgia end. As a SOBO, that is as it should be for my last picture on the AT.  An experience I will forever cherish and remember 

Erik, as he leaves the trail for the last time (note the Crocs in lieu of hiking shoes. a sure sign we are not hiking much today :)).

Mt Katahdin, our starting point, is a staggering 2,200 miles away.  What an adventure :)

Thru hiking the AT has been a dream and goal for more than 40 years; so pleased to have finally done it; so blessed to have done it with my son; so rewarded with memories, experiences and life lessons; so grateful for the opportunity and so excited to tackle whatever comes next.

A huge THANK YOU to all those who supported and followed our trek.  We appreciate and love you all; there was always a part of you with us along the way.

Have the courage to pursue your dreams, the rewards are beyond counting!


 
 
 

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