A Return to the Desert (and a jump to the Sierras)

Scott
Jul 9, 2021
8 min read

After some wonderful time in the mountains I return to the desert to grind some more miles. I do appreciate these breaks at altitude and remain focused on Kennedy Meadows and the entrance to the Sierra when there is no more desert.

Given the fire closure from mile 381 to mile 403, I got a ride to the end of the closure. Some thru hikers hiked through the closure and some hiked a 22 mile road walk down highway 2. Hiking through is tempting but not worth the risk; and since I already have shin splints a 22 mile road walk is not an option so starting after the closure was the only viable option.

A beautiful sunset from camp on June 1

Day 25 - Back on Trail

After all leg issues and adjustments too account for them it felt good to be back on trail with a full pack and sense of purpose. My initial plan was to take it light the first day back but the compression sleeve was working well, the leg was responding well so I pushed 15 miles to a tent site on a bluff above the Mojave. Even then, I set camp at 4:00 and watched others hike by (tempted too push a few more miles myself). Glad I didn't as there was little wind and the bluff was a great tent site with beautiful views across the Valley below.

Exciting interaction with my first rattlesnake today. Was in the afternoon on a stretch of trail on a steep hillside. Luckily I only had one ear bud in (they suggest that so you can hear the rattlers). I was cruising down the trail when I heard that distinctive sound. I froze as soon as I heard it and looked around to see where the snake was. I saw him just off the trail about 6 feet in front of me. One more stride and I would have been in striking distance. He was napping so was late too warn me. Adrenaline rush as I realized the close call. Then had to consider how to get past. Steep grade so no hiking around him and he was settled right on the trail. Backtracked and waited 10 minutes hoping he would move on but he was happy in the Sun. Finally found a 12 foot branch and planned to push him off trail. As soon as I got the branch next to him it snapped (just my luck) but the experience was enough to chase him down hill. He was 4-5 feet long and about 8 years old. Rattlesnakes are my biggest nemesis on trail so was glad to have him gone with no bite :).

Day 26 - Race to see Ranger Ron

Today was supposed too be another light day but that didn't really work out. In the morning I was pushing through lots of overgrowth. With COVID there has been no trail maintenance so some sections are a struggle. After my experience yesterday, I also expect a snake in every bush so stressful to push through. I planned to break at 10 AM as the heat built up and said I would stop when I found shade. Only problem, there was no shade. I kept hiking and around 1:30 PM arrived at the Messenger Flats Campground. Finally some shade but this is where my day was supposed to end. After an hour break I decided to push on to the next water. All my water was warm and I had been dreaming of a cold drink. Arrived at the water (mile 17 for the day) and it was a trickle but it was cold. Drank about a half gallon as I sat in the shade- so nice. Several hikers congregated at this little Oasis and talk was of a Ranger Rick offering trail magic 4 miles up trail. I had been dreaming of a cold drink all day and 4 miles seemed like a small price. It took me just about an hour to finish that four miles. Two Gatorades, two root bears and 2 other sodas later I was talking to Ranger Ron, the trail angel, and settling into camp. A 21 mile day but the leg felt good and I felt good. Not just a long day, but hard as well with overgrowth and climbs. Felt good physically for the first time in a while.

Day 27 - Camping without an RV

Since I went longer than expected the past two days, today is a short 8 mile hike to the Acton KOA RV Campground. They have a pool that I don't use but showers, laundry and a store that I do. Also, they have my resupply boxes with all the food I need to reach Tehachapi. Given I skipped the closure and hiked extra long days, I am here two days ahead of schedule so need to decide my strategy going forward. Glad it was a short day as it was HOT by 7:30 AM. Understand why thru hikers leave earlier in April to cross these sections before they heat up.

Day 28 - Decisions, Decisions . . .

Today is all about deciding my path forward. I can either take some rest here at the KOA (which I don't feel I need) or leave some food behind and push on too Tehachapi. As part of my planning I call Peggy to get an update. A lot going on at home. Erik was planning to go back to El Salvador in September to finish his missionary service. That would coincide with the planned end of my hike. He now plans to go back to El Salvador sometime in June. And, in addition to managing her Bed and Breakfast, Peggy has been managing our house, taxiing Rachel and all the other issues of life. She survived our AT hike but she didn't have the B&B back then. She continues to be supportive but also let's me know it has been hard. Lots to think about and the trail gives plenty of time too think. If I push on to the Sierras (close enough I can taste them) it becomes quite difficult to get off trail. I would miss Erik leaving. In addition, as much as this hike is good for me, it is clear it has not been good for the rest of my family. Sometimes you have to make a hard decision because deep down you know it is the right decision. So, with some sadness, I decide that this is the easiest point to get off trail. Instead of Agua Dulce and the Aqueduct, it is the Subaru and St George.

I will thru hike the PCT and when I do I will apply the learning and experiences of the last month and 350 miles. But that will happen when the time is right. Until then, this chapter remains unfinished.

Unexpected updates:

Day 29 - 45 were spent in St George where I picked up my son and we headed off to Yosemite for a week in the Sierras. After a month in the Desert, figured I deserved some time in the Sierras and those following along deserve to see the better parts of the PCT. It was a 7 hour drive but worth it to be with my son and at one of my favorite places on Earth.

Day 46 - A return to the woods

We got an early start from Tonopah and arrived at Yosemite's Tioga pass gate by 9 AM. We were greeted by lots of signs saying that a reservation was required for entrance to Yosemite. What? Never heard of that before and we don't have a reservation. When we get to the ranger at the gate the sales skills are put to use and I explain we have PCT Thru Hike passes. Somehow, our story was accepted and we were given a parking pass good for a week. Another example of things turning out right with a little faith and perseverance. Was meant to spend some time with Erik :). We stopped at Tuolumne Meadows, rented Erik a bear cannister, packed up our kit and headed out for Donahue Pass at 11,300 feet. A 16.4 mile first day that will test us both. The beauty of Yoemite made the miles easy. Usually go to Snow Creek, Clouds Rest, Half Dome and the Valley. Have not seen this part of Yosemite.

Day 47 - Off to Devil's Postpile

After a big first day we push even harder and pull 18.5 miles to get to Devil's Postpile and Red's Meadow Resort. The morning was amazing with the climb up Island Pass and Thousand Island Lake. After that we hiked a long, hot Ridgeline (nice too see not every mile of the Sierras is gorgeous). There was a lot of water and a lot of sun and lot of miles. The Postpile was a bit anticlimactic and we were exhausted pulling into Red's. We had looked forward too a cheeseburger and milk shake all day. We got there to find they were out of ice cream and the cheeseburgers were $15 a piece (yes $15 :(). We did catch a 5 minute hot shower (heaven) and spent the night in the nearby campground as had no energy to move on.

Day 48 - From PCT to JMT

After two hard days we eased up and only hiked 10.5 miles today. We also made the transition from the PCT to the JMT (John Muir Trail) and will hike the JMT back to Tuolumne Meadows. We heard from other hikers this section of the JMT is gorgeous and it didn't disappoint.

Day 49 - Back to the top

Today started with a bit of a bonus hike as I missed a turn early and we hiked most of the way to Lake Elizabeth before we got back on the right trail. Saw some cool stuff but also extended our day to just over 15 miles with several passes to climb. We enjoyed the many lakes, creeks and streams (so different than the desert) though with the water comes mosquitoes and bugs. Ended just over Donahue Pass and camped at 11,000 feet. Great views and no bugs so a great campsight.

Day 50 - A final farewell

Today is Peggy's birthday so Erik and I decide to make a rush over the final 13 miles so we can get home before her birthday ends. We hauled butt and finished the hike in less than 4 hours - good thing we did as even with our hauling we got home at 10 PM so just caught the end of the birthday (which was much appreciated by those at home).

Still a cool day. When we got near Tuolumne we ran into JT and Kendra. I camped with them that very first night at Hauser Creek. Was a great reminder that part of the wonder of thru hiking is the people that you meet. Also, a fitting way to end - just like I began.

Was thankful to spend time in the Sierras, they are gorgeous. Was thankful to spend the past week with Erik, better than hiking alone and a good reminder of our AT adventure. Still some regrets about not being able to finish the entire PCT this time but at peace with my decision and grateful for the great experience I had, the beautiful things I saw and the interesting people I met.