Almost Yellowstone
- Jun 21, 2022
- 13 min read
It was a great week in Montana as the sun finally came out and we crossed the Continental Divide for the first time. It was good to get back to mountains and woods as we crept toward higher elevations. The excitement of Yellowstone and the Tetons approaching keeps the miles moving quickly.
Day 23 - 48 Miles to Hamilton
Today was an interesting day. It started with a big breakfast at the Residence Inn Missoula. We then took Erik's bike to Hellgate Cycles to get new brakes. They said come back in a few hours so we visited the Adventure Cycling Association (the managing body that coordinates the maps etc. for the TransAmerica Trail), logged our journey into their book and got our picture up on their wall. We then did some shopping, got packed and picked up Erik's bike. With a busy morning we didn't leave Missoula until almost 3 PM. Luckily the bike path from Missoula goes all the way past Lolo and we planned to ride 25 miles to a campground. Here is where it gets interesting. We got to tthe campground around 6 PM, only its no longer a campground. It hasn't been for three years. Hmmm. Well, there is a hotel and B&B only 2 miles off trail in Stephenson, let's go there. Only, the B&B was sold last year and is no longer a B&B. And the hotel, doesn't take same day reservations and has a 2 night minimum. Apparently the TAT map hasn't been updated for a while. We checked two more campgrounds that are no longer campgrounds and then started getting creative. Called the local fire department, no answer left a message. Called another B&B ten miles away - full. Getting cold and late. Finally we determined the only viable options were in Hamilton, twenty miles further down the road. Luckily, the bike path extends all the way to Hamilton so we didn't have to risk being hit as we arrived at a hotel around 9 PM. When we hiked the AT, I had everything planned in advance. This trip, we decided to be more flexible. Today, we were too flexible and almost got burned. A few lessons learned:
Don't trust the map
Confirm where you are staying early in the day, don't wait until you get there
Don't leave later in the day unless you are SURE you can do light miles
It all worked out but we could have been stuck. Good news today - the Warriors won :). Bad news today - the closed all the gates at Yellowstone due to flooding and road damage. We should be there in a week so say a prayer they open the gatesby then.
Milestone today - we have peddled over 1,000 miles.
We started our day at the Adventure Cycling Association and logged in our TransAmerica Trail adventure
There was a nice bike trail heading out of Missoula. It didn't stay nice but it did last all the way to Hamilton.
Celebrating 1,000 miles peddled
Erik riding the bike trail out of Missoula
HQ for Teddy Roosevelt's Conservation Society was right along the bike path
A little ski place on the mountains along the way
Mountains to our right as we make our way toward Hamilton
The mist in front of the layered mountains created a really unique effect
Today's rustic little building
Loved this Ranch entrance with all the bears
We finally find a sketchy hotel room in Hamilton and move the bikes inside for safety
Day 24 - 42 miles to Indian Creek Campground
Slept in a little after our late night. Cooked our waffles and got on the road. We finally start climbing out of the valley today. The morning is cold (45 degrees) with a chilling headwind. It is not raining (thank you) but still overcast. With the day into Missoula, the day in Missoula and the day out of Missoula we have been three days near a city. It is nice to have signal, restaurants and the bike path is awesome but I miss the woods. I would rather have the flow of a river beside me rhan the flow of traffic. After 20 miles of gloomy peddling through cool little towns like Darby we finally started to climb back into the woods. There was a river beside us and the sun peeked out. All was right with the world:). Single lane and no shoulder were an easy trade for woods, mountains and fewer cars and trucks. Given today was only 42 miles, we got to camp around 4 and we set up by 5. Erik took a sun nap and I filtered some spring water (sooo much better than tap water). The campground didn't take reservations so we were lucky to find a space. When we hike, it is never hard to find a place to stay. Shelter may be full but always a spot to set up your tent. On the bike, finding nightly lodging can be elusive. We talked to another biker who said it gets better on the other side of the Rockies.
Milestone today - we have completed 25% of the entire TransAmerica Trail.
Looking at three sunny and dry days, let's hope that helps dry out Yellowstone.
The mountains continue along our right as we exit Hamilton.
These rumble strips may save lives but they are a nightmare for the trike on a narrow shoulder (thub, thub, thub . . .)
Beautiful
Beautiful wildflowers along today's route
Trapper Peak - 10,157 Feet Tall, tallest in the Bitterroot Mountain Range
Have seen quite a few tee pees along our time on the Nez Perce trail
Interesting rock formations emerge from the mountains as we climb up the pass
We stopped for a drink in Sula but everything was closed. After Covid and wildfires so many of these small businesses and small towns are just closed.
A lot of the TAT in the northwest follows the Lewis & Clark trail. Lewis and Clark came through what is now Sula, Montana in 1805.
This is what we saw from the top of the pass
I have to leave my rig by the side of the road to go see historic markers and sites
All settled in at Indian Creek Campground (yes that is the sun - hallelujah)
Can usually find a new flower if you explore around camp
Day 25 - 52 miles to Jackson, Montana
It was cold this morning so we decided to pack up and start peddling to warm up and defer breakfast until the top of the climb. I estimated the climb would be 2-4 miles long, it was 7 miles to the top of Lost Trail Pass and an 8th mile to the top of Chief Joseph pass (out high point for the day). This climb also took us over the Continental Divide for the first time which was exciting. We then dropped into the Big Hole valley and visited a National Tourist Site about the battle of Big Hole where the US Calvary attacked a group of Nez Perce Indians. Was a good break and and some interesting history. We then passed through Wisdom where we were attacked by hundreds of mosquitoes (like Yosemite in Summer bad). We bought a quick snack and started peddling to escape the barrage. The ride was nice with the continental divide on our right as we made our way into Jackson for the night. We are getting closer to Yellowstone and keep good thoughts it will be open when we get there.
Today's milestone - we biked up to 7,250 feet today, our highest altitude yet.
Found this little beauty in the morning by the creek
Looking back from our morning climb
No summit sign so used the map. We crossed Lost Trail Pass and Chief Joseph Pass back to back
Looking back from Chief Joseph Pass
Coming down the pass we see the Continental Divide on our horizon
Day 26 - 50 miles to Dillon, Montana
After disappointment in Wisdom (mosquitoes) and Jackson (everything closed) we were anxious to push on to Dillon and find something open. It was 50 miles with literally nothing but ranches in between. There were two climbs. On the first climb there was a 20+ MPH headwind. Our first real experience with a significant headwind and it peaked right as we started our climb. Erik ended up walking his bike up the hill (so did Kiran, an English TransAm biker we met in Jackson last night. It is hard to "walk" my rig so I ended up peddling up into the wind. Since I am lower to the ground the wind has less effect (benefit trike) but was still a tough climb. After a lunch break we started up the second climb. The wind had died down which was a blessing. I am not sure if the climb was steep or I was tired but the second climb was a struggle. When we crested the top at Big Hole Pass it was amazing to see the mountains all around the valley in front of us. We are over 7,000 feet and looking way up at the surrounding peaks. I realize we have been traveling where we climb 6,000 and 7,000 foot passes through 9,000 and 10,000 foot mountains. After Yellowstone, we will be climbing into 9,000 and 10,000 foot passes through 12,000 to 14,000 foot peaks. Both excited and intimidated. I told Erik today though, if we can get from sea level to.7,000 feet than we can get from 7,000 to 11,000 feet. Let's hope that logic holds. Tonight we are staying at a hostel like campground. Should protect us from the wind. It was built and is managed by Larry who does a lot of distance biking. It is awesome and has a ton.of cool touches. So glad we arevstaying here. Starting to see more bikers going both directions which is awesome. Improving that culture issue I highlighted on day 7.
Milestone today - breached 7,400 feet. Warriors win their 4th championship
Leaving Jackson we ride along the huge Hamilton Ranch (20 square miles)
Climbing out of the valley
View from the top
We learned this contraption is used to make giant piles of hay
A new high, we will see how long it lasts
Today's rustic building
We are at 7,000 feet and the mountains on both sides tower over us. Going to go higher
Found this by the side of the road heading into Dillon
And this entire field of flowers
Just 654 miles from St George via I-15
The awesome biker hostel in Dillon, love the gazebo camping spaces
Impressive painted clouds as we cook dinner
A thought provoking quote from Merriwether Lewis (Lewis & Clark). I loved the quote so I am sharing it.
Day 27 - 47 Miles to Ruby Valley Campground
Before leaving, I again need to comment on how wonderful the bike camp in Dillon was. Larry was a great host and developed a thoughtful and accommodating camp for bikers. Erik and I slept inside away from the wind. The winds are blowing up to 30 MPH so that's a good thing. Today, we made a big V around a big mountain. We peddled NE for 28 miles to Twin Bridges and then another 20 miles SE to Alder. Those big winds were mostly a tailwind on our way to Twin Bridges. Those miles went super fast and were so easy. We left at 10 AM so the wind would be with us and that was smart. We had lunch in Twin Bridges and then set out for Alder. Well, that mostly tail wind immediately became a mostly headwind. Those 20 miles were slow and hard. We finally arrived around 6 PM and of course the wind died down almost immediately. At least we are settled and only 2 days from Yellowstone.
At the Dillon Bike Camp we met Louie from France who is going westbound. He gave us some pointers on upcoming sections. Larry, the host, also shared stories and insights for what is coming up. When in Twin Bridges, we met Kieran, the English eastbounder we camped with in Jackson. The past two days have been better in.terms of building a TAT community feeling.
The sun was out all day with temperatures up to 86 degrees. All that wind offset the heat a bit. Hoping for better riding weather tomorrow as we have another big climb to complete.
Today's milestone - we are over 30% complete
This is the famous Beaver Head rock that the area is named for. It was a landmark for the local Indians and used by Lewis and Clark to find the Shoshone
Passed this cool old barn while the wind blew us toward Twin Bridges
We spent today basically going around this mountain. First NE 28 miles and then SE 20 miles. Would have been shorter to just go over but was probably better to go around.
The view from our tent site looking at the mountains across the fishing pond
Day 28 - 49 Miles to Palisades Recreational Area
You ever have one of those days. It started fine with a gentle climb through the historic towns of Nevada City and Virginia City. Then a bigger climb up over the pass. So far, so good. There was a big down hill (Erik and I both were going 35 MPH+ which is crazy fast for a trike. During that downhill my left brake began to fail. Kind if a big deal as there is no brake on the back tire so it's important the two front wheels brake evenly. Caught some head wind to slow me down (thankfully) so made it into Ennis in one piece. Erik and I stopped for lunch and Larry drove over from Dillon to give me my power bag (it had dropped out of my pannier when we left there two days ago). That was a 70 mile drive for Larry, a testament to what a great guy he is. We then left Ennis and headed south. South where the wind comes from. Blowing 25-35 MPH today directly into our faces. Yesterday we had 20 miles to do in a crosswind, today we had 30 miles to do into a fierce headwind. And did I mention it was an uphill grade most of the way. Oh, and MDOT decided to put rumble strips along the entire shoulder. And, the traffic was unusually heavy for a Saturday. Easily the hardest day thus far. Headwinds are so discouraging. When you have a hard climb you know there is a top and you are rewarded with a summit and usually a great view. When you have headwinds, there is no end. They just keep coming and coming. And there is no reward. No summit or view. Headwinds just take a normal day and make it much longer and harder but no more rewarding :(. I do not like headwind!
The historic towns were cool and we learned a lot about the gold rush in the 1860s. The mountains continue to impress as the Continental Divide continues to follow us. The ride from Ennis was a bit uninspiring as we peddled past endless ranches with empty fields of grass. Camp is nice, located on the shore of the swollen Madison River with cliffs on one side and the Divide on the other. Lots of mosquitoes so we cook dinner and jump in our tents.
Todays milestone - right as we got to camp it started raining. We ducked under the canopy on the bathroom building and stayed dry as a shower poured down. 15 minutes later it was over. The milestone is that we actually stayed dry - that never happens to us.
Our good morning view coming out of camp
Erik saw this 4 foot tall sand hill crane. It had a loud and unique call
One of the more unique houses we saw heading into Nevada City. Both Nevada City and Virginia City are 1860s gold rush towns that maintained their original look and feel. They are like museum towns.
On weekends, volunteers populate the town in period clothing - worth a visit if you are close by
Several old buildings from Virginia City including the Vigilantes Headquarters
After the historic cities we climb over the pass and start a section of sweeping Montana ranch lands with snowcapped peaks behind
This view with some wildflowers
Erik taking in the view
We passed miles of grazing land and watched the mountains slowly pass by. We were fighting 30+ MPH headwinds most of the day :(
We finally get to camp below this cliff formed by the Madison River
Like most creeks and rivers, the Madison is near flood stage so we camp on high ground
Given the mosquitoes 🦟 and the long day, we tuck in early
Day 29 - 48 Miles to West Yellowstone
After three tough windy days, today I received a great Father's Day present. It was a beautiful riding day with low wind and an overcast to.keep the temperature down (but no rain). In addition, the route today spread the lift out so there were no daunting hills. Just lots of smaller rises with gentle drops on.the backside. Finally, we rode along the Madison River up through Quake Lake (a lake formed in 1959 when an earthquake caused a landslide that blocked the Madison River. The area was beautiful and a welcome departure from the endless ranch lands we had been peddling through. Our day ended with us in West Yellowstone. We have a hotel for the night - a shower is welcome after five straight nights of camping. Yellowstone is set to re-open Wednesday morning so we have two days to get our bikes and bodies fixed before jumping into Wyoming and the excitement of Yellowstone and the Tetons.
Todays Milestone - we got to West Yellowstone, now we just need them to open the park
To brighten our Father's Day morning
Camp was comfortable but we had to peddle back up to the road
I imagined living in that little farmhouse and climbing that big mountain every day
After days of ranch land we finally climb up to Quake Lake and beautiful mountain country
Quake Lake was formed in 1959 when an earthquake caused a landslide that blocked the Madison River (28 people killed in the campgrounds)
Even though a climb is required, I always prefer the mountains to the valleys
These were on a vine we saw as we took a break from biking and took a hike in the woods
Our hike ended at the spill way for the dam. This is what it looks like when flood waters are being released
Found several wildflowers on the hike back
On the hike we also saw big horn sheep up on the cliff
If you can zoom the video you will see a mama big horn with three babies (wish I had a better camera)
So many cool things on the hike. Loved this area around Quake Lake
There is a cargo cart on cables hanging across the river here. Love all the historical elements
After Quake Lake we peddled around Hebgen Lake. Never saw a bison 🦬 though we saw this sign
After Hebgen Lake we followed the river back up the valley toward West Yellowstone
With cliffs soaring up the other side
Day 30 - 0 miles as we wait for Yellowstone to open on Wednesday.
We did get laundry and shopping done. Also got a good night's sleep and a nap so my body is happier.. We also watched the new Jurassic Park movie in IMAX. No spoilers but I was underwhelmed.
Today's milestone, they confirmed we are allowed in Yellowstone at 8 AM Wednesday.
Day 31 - 0 miles again but Yellowstone tomorrow :)
Today was a bit of a lazy day. Finally sunny and warmed up a bit so we went to the Wildlife Adventure area (basically a small zoo with Yellowstone wildlife.)
Today's milestone - Peggy and Rachel arrive to join us in Yellowstone. Yea!
Erik with a 1,000 pound stuffed grizzly behind him (taxi - durmy as Bugs Bunny would say)
Sam, a live 950 pound grizzly we saw outside. These massive grizzlies are from Alaska. The local version is only 500 pounds +/-
A couple of other grizzlies moving around the enclosure.
A big white timber wolf taking a sun nap
Finally, my favorite - river otters. They are the best (apologies for poor camera through dirty glass. Hopefully zoom improves the visibility).
We are excited to get peddling again and see all the sites of Yellowstone and the Tetons. Cannot wait for the next update - likely from Rawlins, Wyoming in about a week.
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