Missouri is a Self- Propelled Roller Coaster

Scott
Jul 23, 2022
9 min read

After so many monotonous miles we were so happy to see that Missouri state line. We wanted some change and boy did we get our wish. Up and down and up and down . . . endless Ozark hills. None of them are tall but some are steep. Not the long slow climbs of the West but short choppy climbs followed by speedy little drops. After nothing but flat now we have no flat. Just up and down like a roller coaster. Hoping all this climbing leads to some gorgeous mountains or forests bur based on the map it more likely leads to the Mississippi River. We take it one day at a time as we make our way East. We heard about the loose dogs in Kentucky, a few Missourians are warming us up by letting their dogs run loose. Definitely motivates me up the hill when getting chased by a large dog that wants to eat me. Fun, fun, fun.

Day 57 - 66 miles to Houston, Missouri

I was a little worried after yesterday's 48 miles took so much out of me. Especially when today called for 66 miles and even more climb. Well, we got the same early start. The day was overcast with showers in the forecast but that did make it cooler. We hit our first stop at 27 miles in and had a breakfast bag. From there we pushed forward feeling much better than yesterday. We took a second break at 46 miles to hide under a tree while a rain shower passed. We took a third break.around 56 miles in to climb a fire tower - little scary but cool view. Still feeling good despite the miles and climb. Then the sun came out from behind the clouds. Not sure why but the sun here is so intense - especially when climbing hills. Fought through the last few miles and settled into Houston with everything pretty wet (little rain, little sweat and a lot of humidity = wet kit). So, the end of the day was the clue. It is the sun that makes the difference. No sun, miles fly by, even with climb. With the sun baking me, the miles drag and I waver. Big day planned again tomorrow with even more climb so we are up at 5 and on the bikes by 6 AM. Need to get within 10-12 miles of our destination by 1 PM or the heat becomes oppressive. End note - we got to the hotel and checked in at 3:45. By 4:45 there was a severe storm warning and all heck broke loose outside. So nice to watch it through a window instead of having it fall on our heads. We continue to see blessings and tender mercies each day of this trip.

Today's milestone - climbed a fire tower which is a first for this trip

Found this beauty as we peddled this morning

We took a late break to wait out some rain

We passed this fire tower and decided to stop and climb it (AT memories). Nice views and cool breeze at the top. Wooden steps though, so was sketchy getting to the top

The view from the top of the fire tower

Day 58 - 69 miles to Ellington

Another super early start. After the rainstorm last night the morning is misty/foggy as we head out. We have our tail lights blinking but still concerned with visibility as log trucks roar by. And although it is nice and cool, the mist sticks to us so we are soaked after a few miles. Still it is thankfully cooler so we push hard. We made Summerville by 8:30 and grabbed some ice and a cinnamon roll. We then head toward Eminence. There are some STEEP hills so those 19 miles came hard. Still, we got there by 11:30 and had lunch. Now, the big decision - do we stay in Eminence and take a short day or do we push another 27 miles to Ellington? I checked the map and it shows over 3,000 feet of climb in those 27 miles, hmmm. But it is only noon so we decide to push on. About 5 miles later as the afternoon heated up and the hills got steeper, I determined pushing on was a mistake. Wasn't going back though. Had to walk the trike up a few of the steeper hills (actually faster then peddling when the grade gets above 10%). We pulled into Ellington around 4:30. Tired, hot and thirsty but feeling better than I expected for a 69 mile day with over 5,600 feet of climb.

Today's milestone - we climbed over 5,600 feet. That's the most climb in a single day and over a mile of vertical lift.

Take this section of road and keep repeating it a hundred times and you have a day in Missouri.

This little guy was rushing his life crossing the road so I moved him across to safety. He would not come out to say "Thank you" though

This cool old gas pump was at the Sinclair in Eminence. It looks like the one Peggy has in the Fogg Suite at her Mulberry Inn

Right before Ellington we passed this old barn - may be the best one yet?

Day 59 - 64 miles to Farmington

Not as crazy as yesterday but still 64 miles with 4,600 feet of lift. That's 135 miles and 10,000 feet of climb Iverson the past two days. And, my legs are feeling it. Today was a lot like yesterday, misty morning followed by hot afternoon. The early miles came slow as my legs tried to recover from yesterday. The climbs today were generally not as steep but there were one or two that were over 10% grade. Saw another tortoise crossing the road today (this one made it safely on his own) and a group of young playful deer. There are more trees now creating some shade and making the heat a bit more bearable. A few times the canopy covered the road which was reminiscent of the AT. Slowly but surely the scenery is improving. We pass the Mississippi River tomorrow and then should start climbing up toward the Appalachians. After a little Deliverance experience in Kentucky.

Today's milestone - we crossed 3,000 miles completed. Giddy Up.

The trees provide shade and I love it when the canopy covers the road

Got these guys from a distance earlier, today was able to get close up

Took a late break at the Bismark Train Station

Celebrating 3,000 miles finished

Day 60 - 48 miles to Chester, Illinois

A few things can be derived from the header above. First, 48 miles looks light given the miles we have been logging lately. However, there was another 3,500 feet of Missouri lift over those miles and after climbing over 10,000 feet in the past two days our legs are shot. In addition, the heat index peaked at 112 degrees today. Trying to climb hills in that heat is borderline unhealthy so we have to wrap up our days by Noonish. You will also note that while we only went 48 miles we did cross the mighty Mississippi River and entered Illinois. So a good day, though somewhat short. We shared the hostel last night with Quan and Vic who are going Westbound. They were also up early as well - everyone trying to beat the heat. The early miles came easier today as we hit Coffman before 8 AM. Sadly the C Store on.the map was not there. Twenty more miles to the C Store in St Mary, that's a long way on.a hot day. We push through and gorge on Gatorade - hard to stay hydrated in the heat. The day ended with a fourteen mile stretch if Mississippi River flood plane book ended by two big climbs. By the time we got to the climb up from the Mississippi River into Chester the heat index was at 112 degrees. Took about an hour to finish the last 3 miles as we skipped from one patch of shade to the next. Missouri gave us a nice good bye with another successful tortoise crossing, a few cute baby raccoons and a couple of nasty climbs. Enjoyed the trees, the shade and the wildlife but will not miss the crazy grades on the roller coaster.

Today's milestone - crossed into Illinois, our eighth state. Crossed the mighty Mississippi River.

Quan joins us at Al's Place, a great hostel in Farmington, Missouri

Al's Place was upstairs in the old prison building in Farmington

Guessing as Farmington goes from family business to industrial agriculture the small farms and towns around them are slowly dying out 😞

The Mississippi River from the Chester Bridge looking North

Looking South. Pretty wide here but gets wider as it flows south

Chester is a Popeye City . . . ?

Day 61 - 49 miles to Carbondale

Little discouraged this morning as my legs don't seem to be recovering from those tough Missouri hills. I understand being tired at the end of the day but not at the beginning. Hills I used to have no problem with now tucker me out. Hoping a lighter climb day will help as today only has about 2,400 feet of lift (much lower than the Missouri - read misery - days had). It was not as humid today so not as hot. A blessing given how hot and humid it has been. The scenery in southern Illinois is a little Kansas with corn and soybean fields and a little Missouri with some trees and rollers. We left at 6:30 after breakfast and rode 18 miles to a C Store for second breakfast. That was followed by a quick 14 miles to Murphysboro for lunch (and the end of map 9). We finished with a 12 mile run into Carbondale where we will spend the night and get some bike repairs. Last chance before heading into the Kentucky hills (queue banjo music).

Today's milestone - we finished two full months on trail, so less than a month to go.

Think this is some type of thistle

Sorry for the lack of pictures. Not a lot of photo worthy moments combined with a lot of heat and humidity. Should get better in the Appalachians (hopefully sooner).

Day 62 - 52 miles to Hayes Canyon Campground

Erik was not feeling well this morning (think we ate too much last night) so we got a little later start around 7:30. Our initial goal was 28 miles to Goreville. The morning started off okay with more gentle climbs. We went through Grassy Lake Park which was beautiful. My legs felt better and I was encouraged. Before long, however, the steep rolling hills were back as was the typical Midwest farm scenery. By Goreville my legs were thrashed and my encouragement diminished. :(. We had second breakfast in Goreville and looked at the map. The road seemed to smooth out going forward so we pressed on. We had a unique experience at Tunnel Hill where we rode up to an old railway tunnel. There was a cool bike path that went on for miles but sadly it didn't go in our direction. From there we pushed on to Simpson which is about 43 miles from Carbondale. By then it was 2:30 and our late start caught up to us. The temperatures started to soar. We caught a break as the manager at Hayes Campground offered to grab us in Simpson and drive us to camp. That was the easiest 12 miles since coming down from Hoosier Pass. I need some easy miles as my legs are worn out pushing that heavy trike up these steep grades. Not much relief in the future.

Today's milestone - we got the trike into a truck and drove 12 miles. This may inspire a whole new approach to the Appalachians.

Heading toward Grassy Lake conditions were idyllic

Grassy Lake was the best riding since Colorado and a good spot for second breakfast

Also a couple new wildflowers around the lake

Later in the day we visited Tunnel Hill, an old railway tunnel with its own cool bike path (sadly heading in a different direction).

It was built in 1929 as part of a local railway and was used through 1988. Was a cool diversion and "cool" on a hot day.

Day 63 - 44 miles to Marion, Kentucky

We spent last night in an RV in a campground and tonight we are in a DIVE motel in Marion, Kentucky. They had two things in common, they were worn out and they had AC. It is so hot and humid 😫 we have to get a break at night. We are running out of viable options as we head into rural Kentucky. Yes,that's right, Kentucky. Our ninth state that we entered by crossing the Ohio River on the ferry today. We left the campground in Eddyville at 6 AM. Super early start as I know I am slow on climbs and I know it will get hot today (heat advisory starting at 11 AM). There were no services until Elizabethtown 22 miles in where we stopped for a cold drink. That was followed by a quick 10 miles to Cave-in-Rock where the ferry goes across the river. Cave-in-rock is another dying TAT trail town with few services so we jumped on the ferry and floated over to Kentucky. Not much on the Kentucky side either. About five miles in there was an Amish store selling furniture, jams and other tourist stuff. Luckily they had cold water which was a welcome relief in the heat. That left just 8 miles into Marion which has a few gas stations and restaurants but only one dumpy hotel. There was a hostel but no shower last night or tomorrow night means better get one tonight. The good news is my legs felt better today. Not fully recovered but better than yesterday. That is after climbing almost 3,000 feet. Tomorrow is another light day and them we start working through Kentucky's Hills.

Today's milestone - entered our ninth state - Kentucky. Ferried across the Ohio River

After Elizabethtown, we catch our first glimpse of the Ohio River through the trees.

Right before Cave-in-Rock we passed this cool bike rest area. It was started by a guy in the 1990s and he kept adding to it. After he passed away, his daughter maintains it and continues to add on. As a biker, people's charity is much appreciated - especially on hot and long days