Visiting Dorothy and Toto . . . There's no place like home?

After the wonders of the Pacific Northwest, the majesty of Yellowstone and the Tetons and the alpine beauty of the Rockies it has been a bit of a let down traveling through Eastern Colorado and Kansas. One thing I can say - it's flat. You can see for miles in every direction. Literally square miles of wheat fields in Colorado and corn fields in Kansas. The scenery doesn't change for hundreds of miles. And as we drop into the great plains the temperatures are moving up (mid to high 90s most days). So, we are taking advantage of the flat and pounding big miles every day across the plains. Since there is little to see or do, might as well peddle all day. Eventually we pass through the Southern tip of Illinois and then into Missouri and the Ozarks. The climbs will return, and hopefully so will the cool scenery.

Day 46 - 50 miles to Ordnay

We got a late start as my bike wasn't ready until 9:30 this morning.  With new brakes and a days rest on our legs we set out from Pueblo due east.  We are anxious to move through these flat sections quickly but the places to stay are few and far between so the miles are sometimes dictated too us.  That was the case leaving Pueblo.  We could stop in Ordnay (only 50 miles) or push on to Haswell which is 90 miles (too much for us).  It turns our stopping in Ordnay was a blessing as the 20% chance of thunderstorms became a severe weather warning and a major storm with flooding.  We planned to camp in the park and set up under an awning for protection from the rain.  That worked for about an hour.  Then the winds picked up and the floods started.  There were trash cans floating by and even the area under the shelter was flooding. Luckily, there was a hotel across the street.  I called and they had a room.  We left the bikes under the shelter and headed for the hotel.  Thr street was so flooded there was a four foot river in front of the hotel we had to cross.  What a night.  Anyway,  we are not dry and we pray our bikes stay safe and dry until morning.   Other than the crazy weather, not a lot to see along the drive today.  Similar to the badlands, high desert with lots of ranch land and not much else.  There were a lot of rail cars,  coal and chemical. 

Today's milestone - survived a flash flood

Not a lot too see along the route but these long horn steers let you know you are in cattle country

Passed this cool looking silo. Reminded me of the early castles we saw in Ireland where they put the door 20-30 feet up and used a ladder to get in

You can see the storm forming up from the park where we camped. That building is actually a hotel and when all heck broke loose we bailed on camping and ran over there.

You can see the lightning and hear the rain.pouring down. I took this from the shelter in the park. Shortly after we waded across the flooded street to the hotel next door.

Day 47 - 89 miles to Sheridan Lake

Since we left our bikes under the shelter in the park we got up at sun rise (5:45 AM) to retrieve them. After a quick breakfast, we were on.the road and the miles flew by given the flat terrain.  We took a snack break in Haswell (40 miles in) and then stopped for lunch in Eads (62 miles).  The Cafe was closed so we bought Canadian bacon, a nectarine and some Gatorade.  Mmm, that was good.  We then finished the day with a 27 mile stint to Sheridan Lake where the local church acts as a bike hostel.  We arrived around 5 and were the only ones there. There was a kitchen, a bathroom and a gym to sleep in.  So much nicer than the one in Jeffery City.  We had such a good day, we will try the same routine tomorrow. 

Today's milestone - 89 miles is our highest milage day thus far.

Given our route parallels the old trans Continental rail line there are a lot of historic train cars along the way - this one in a park in Sugar City

The scenery is so flat and featureless, you can literally see the curvature of the Earth along the horizon

I think this is the pink version of the white flower I found earlier

We may have passed the world's oldest and smallest Texaco station

We passed this sign at a rest stop outside of Eads claiming that was the halfway point for the TransAmerica Trail. Either way, we are past half way

The church where we spent the night had a well tuned grand piano and Erik was in

Heaven

Day 48 - 100 miles to Dighton, Kansas

Yes you read that right - 100 miles.  Before we started this trip Erik and I discussed a goal of doing at least one century ride.  After yesterday's 89 miles we thought if we pushed just a little bit more, and today we did.  The church last night was awesome and we ate breakfast there before heading out.  We only had 14 miles if Colorado left and then we stopped for second breakfast in Tribune, Kansas (a chicken biscuit).  We then peddled 34 miles to Scott City.  That is Scott City in Scott County Kansas - I was expecting the key to the city but settled for lunch at a tiny grill.  Most of the town was dead like so many towns on this route.  The grill was awesome and affordable and served breakfast all day.  I had cheese hash browns with eggs, bacon. Sausage and ham mixed in.  Delicious and still with me four hours later ☺️.   We then tackled the final 24 miles in the highest heat of the day (96 degrees) and a mild headwind.   But, we did it.  We are staying at a dive old hotel in Dighton but it has a shower, ice and laundry so no complaints.   Tomorrow we will lighten the pace a bit as it gets even hotter (99 degrees) and our bodies need some slack :).  Also, I cannot afford to but Gatorade at the current rate.  Spending north of $20/day just trying to stay hydrated in this heat.

Today's milestones - we did our first century ride fulfilling an initial goal.  We also entered Kansas, our sixth state.

Welcome to Kansas, also known as flat land

Look at the huge pile of wheat just sitting waiting to be loaded onto rail cars. The huge grain trucks hauling it from the fields to the depots buzz by us all day making a huge whoosh every time they go by

The harvesters are HUGE, this one is set to fill the grain truck so it can blow us off the road

A lot going on here as we enter Scott City in Scott County Kansas along bicycle Route 76 (oh yes and Jake Brakes are prohibited).

One constant from Oregon to Kansas - old rustic barns along the way

Day 49 - 66 miles to Rush Center

The AC did not work in our room last night so it was a hot night leading to a hot day. We got an early start as a result. We pushed to Ness City and took our lunch break at a little coffee shop. We had a bierock which is a German sandwich like a meat pie with beef, cabbage and grilled onions baked inside a bread roll. It was delicious and I washed it down with a mango smoothie. Our plan was to camp in Rush Center but the park on the TAT map didn't exist (again). The guy at the convenience store directed us to a senior center and we camped outside that. It was HOT and humid and hard to get comfortable so another tough night.

Today's milestone - we ate a Bierock for the first time - tasty like a Russian Piroshki

My Bierock and Mango Smoothie. Perfect lunch.

The windmill next to the rustic cabin makes this very Kansas

Day 50 - 85 miles to Nickerson and the Hendriks wild animal farm and B&B

The convenience store didn't open until 8:15 (actually didn't open until 9 but the guy was cool and let us in at 8:15 to get ice and water) so we got a later start. We pushed 28 miles to Great Bend and refilled on.ice and water. There were no other water sources until Nickerson 57 miles later and the first 17 miles were due south straight into the wind. I am fine with heat as I live in the desert. However, I am fine with heat because my body sweats to cool itself. Thus, I need a regular inflow of cold liquids for the system to work. 60 miles stretches without cold liquids are a problem. I was seriously fading after mile 68 today and was telling Erik we needed some trail magic like when we were hiking. Two miles later there was a little sign on.the road saying "Bottled water for Bikers". It was not just water - it was COLD water in a cooler and an umbrella for shade. What wonderful people and at the perfect time. With that boost we made it the full 85 miles in 95 degree heat to Nickerson and the Hedriks B&B and wild animal adventure. Check out the pictures as they basically have a small zoo. I was just thankful for some ACand hopefully a good night's sleep.

Today's milestone - we have survived 50 days. We saw an Eland and an African Porcupine. And . . . We passed 2,500 miles peddled WOOT!

Passed this cool old silo that was tiled when built

When we passed these Elands on the way in we knew the Hendricks B&B would be unique

Once we got settled, they gave us a tour. This is an African Porcupine licking Erik's hand

This is an ostrich egg that hatched

And this incubator is full of eggs waiting to hatch

And they grow up into full size ostrich

Erik petting a kangaroo

And this one is looking for a snack

Next we saw some giant tortoise

The zebra herd was outside our window

And camels. I missed the giraffe 🦒 will try to catch him tomorrow

Day 51 - 50 miles to Newton

Staying at Hedriks was unique and the highlight of what has been a rather long and boring grind through the heat and monotony of Kansas.  Hiking the AT we had 310 miles of stony, rainy snake filled Pennsylvania  - I was so glad to get to Maryland.   Now, I cannot wait to get out of Kansas but we have three more days 😫.  The ride today was easier though still very hot.  The way the towns lay out, it was do 50 miles or over 100 and given the heat that was an easy choice.  Also, my body can use a lighter day as we have pushed hard since dropping from Hoosier Pass.  We also have a long ride tomorrow (73 miles) as that is the stretch to the next town.  Today we were pleasantly surprised to find a little store in Buhler.  That provided cold drinks during a stretch we expected would be dry.  On the downside, we had to take a detour around road construction and the detour was three miles on sand roads.  Pushing a heavy trike through sand is like climbing a steep hill.  The TAT maps continue to disappoint but they are better than nothing.

Today's milestone - we have completed 60% of our TAT journey

My wife's favorite is the giraffe so I snuck a peek at him this morning

Also, two new ostrich hatched this morning (soon to be three)

Outside if Hedriks. Kansas is endless corn fields as far as the eye can see. Over 500 miles and counting, both sides of the road. See why I am ready for Missouri and the Ozarks 😀

At least Colorado and Wyoming had wildflowers, Kansas has none - though I passed this beauty today but expect it was cultivated, not wild.

Day 52 - 73 miles to Eureka

A lot to relate from the past 24 hours.  Last night we tried to get some dinner.  Went to a KFC where the manager said he had no chicken. Truth is, he had chicken he just didn't want to take time to cook it.  In all these dying little towns we see help wanted signs everywhere and when we do see employees they are usually terrible like that KFC manager.  The only good businesses are those owner run shops.  The lack of able and willing labor is a growing problem.   There are people who could and should work, they just choose not too.  It's amazing how quickly a complex economic system can get put off kilter.  Anyway, we found a truck stop that was staffed and had a good salad.  Got up early to beat the heat.  No doubt getting an early start correlates to better days.  We were in Cassoday for lunch before we knew it and half the day was done, 37 miles peddled.   This part of Kansas is a bit different.   There is more rain and more water.  Not running water, but pools and ponds which brings water fowl like cranes and herons.  There are also trees and more range land with cows vs the endless fields we have seen since Pueblo.  Today I also saw a doe with two fawns sneak across the road.  Didn't get a picture, sadly, as they move to fast but was still exciting to see some wildlife again.  After lunch we had a bit of a tail wind (and the power of 5 glasses of cold root beer at lunch) so the miles flew by.  We were in Eureka by 4:30 and were feeling pretty good.  It was 91 degrees today but after a week of 95-100, 91 actually felt okay.  Tomorrow we head for Chanute.

Today's milestone  - we saw wildlife for the first time since Hoosier Pass. Means we are getting back toward woods and mountains. Yes!

The day started as they all do with endless corn fields

Then it shifted to rangeland with ponds and wildlife. May not seem like a big difference, but after a week of corn fields it was exciting

Day 53 - 62 miles to Chanute

Today got off to a good start with an early breakfast and cooler weather.  We traveled twenty miles to Toronto.  We passed a little diner because I was sure there was a place in Toronto.  There wasn't.  Like many other towns we pass everything was closed.  Some things opened Thurs - Sunday for weekend business, but today is Wednesday.   While we were looking around, a nice old lady came out of the senior center and invited us in.  She gave us cold water and cookies and we enjoyed the AC for 30 minutes and chatted with the locals about our adventure.  After leaving Toronto, we headed past Coyville and hit a spot on the road where a bridge had washed out.  We could either backtrack and detour on dirt roads or bivouac our bikes across the creek.  Erik decided to bivouac which was a small challenge with his bike, a bigger challenge with mine.  We made it across and actually enjoyed the challenge as a way to break up the monotony of the day.  We realized with hiking there are daily mental challenges as you ford streams, work your way around blow downs etc.  Just don't have those challenges on the bike.  After our creek crossing the temperature and humidity shot up and the miles seemed to drag.  Sometimes they route us on these super rural roads where the pavement is poor, there is no infrastructure and no signs of life.  In the mountains those can be pretty but on the plains they are straight and seemingly endless.  There are no mile markers or other signs of progress and little to no shade.  They crush my will to peddle.  Alas, we got through it and arrived in Chanute around 4 PM.  Restocked at the Walmart (Fairlife chocolate milk as a treat and some new socks) and then settled in at the Knights Inn (has a laundry which is much needed).  Checking the map, looks like the only place within range tomorrow is Pittsburgh which gets us onto map 9 (out of 12) but is still in Kansas.  Was really looking forward to getting to Missouri,  guess that will wait until Friday.

Today's milestone - we successfully bivouaced a missing bridge, don't do that everyday

The cornfields continue but there are now some prettier spots to make the ride better

We keep saying these towns are like the dead town in Cars, and today we passed Mater so I think we were right

Unlike the rivers and streams out west that run quick and clear, the streams here look more mud holes with no visible current

We started next to that pickup truck and had to bivouac the bikes down the bank, across the creek and up the other side - challenging but better than backtracking

Think these are Honeysuckle? They are definitely new

Day 54 - 57 miles to Pittsburgh

We got an early start though the hotel breakfast was a bust.  We had a good dinner last night as I got a bunch of salad fixings from the Walmart including avocado and hard boiled egg.  Going to be hot again today so we push many miles early while it's cooler.  We arrived at Walnut (24 miles into the day) around 10 and got a cold drink.and some ice.  Shop owner was nice and warned us about the upcoming roller coaster in the Ozarks.  After the monotony of Kansas a little variety will be nice (we will see if I still feel that way after all those steep climbs :)).  From Walnut our next stop was Girard.   We stopped to get ice but wanted to keep moving to beat the heat (was already over 90).  We had 14 miles to make Pittsburgh, and they flew by.  Strange how sometimes miles drag and other times they just disappear.  I am sure it's a mental thing and glad today was a disappear day.  Hills were not too steep today, that probably helped.  We settled into Pittsburgh by 3 PM with the heat index already at 102).  

Another Walmart here so we will see how we augment dinner.  Big day tomorrow, 70 miles in the heat so a big dinner, good night's sleep and early start are all important.

Today's milestone - we have peddled over 2,750 TAT Miles (less than 1,500 left).

Finally a new wildflower along the road

Today's challenge was a closed road. We had to lift my trike over a section of missing pavement. Easier than yesterday but be careful what you wish for

I couldn't get too close as these were growing back in the field. Never seen these before so wanted to get a picture

Day 55 - 70 miles to Ash Grove, Missouri

Yes you read that right - Missouri, finally Missouri.  And, it's just like they warned us - a self propelled roller coaster.  We got an early start and arrived in Golden City super fast so felt good about the day.  We had a great lunch at Cookys Cafe (pork tenderloin sandwich) and refilled ice and water.  After lunch the heat index went over 102 and the miles started to drag.  Some of the roller coaster hills were quite steep and it was sooo hot.  When climbing,  I slow way down and lose the breeze that helps cool.  So, the uphill miles are extra hot.   A little break in the shade with a nectarine and the last of my ice water (love the Yeti) revived me a bit and we pushed the last twelve miles to Ash Grove.  The ride tomorrow is supposed to be ridiculous - we plan a super early start so we finish most of it before the heat really kicks in.

Today's milestone - entered Missouri, vour seventh state

Been waiting to see this sign for a while

The wind turbines out here are huge, that little white speck is a full sized truck

It is interesting to see an entire field of grass turned into a few rolls of hay (and everything is so neat and tidy when they are done)

I do like today's wildflower

Day 56 - 46 miles to Marshfield 

Only 46 miles but I am worn out.  We shared the hostel last night with a nice older couple who got up at 3:45 AM so not much sleep.  The Missouri roller coaster than continued today with a vengeance and finally it is hot and humid (I think that last one is what really taxes me).  Countryside hasn't changed that much.  Fewer corn fields and more farms and ranches.  Hoping for bigger change as we head up into the Ozarks.  Some trees, some shade maybe a little cooler.  I can dream . . .

Given our neighbors early morning ritual we got our earliest start - on bikes by 6:30.  It is much cooler before 10 so getting 30+ miles in early makes for a better day.  There were also a few cold drink stops today.  That also helps beat the heat. 

Today's milestone - on bikes by 6:30 AM, earliest yet and likely a new pattern in this heat

We have returned to ranches and broken down old barns. Rumor has it we get into some good trees soon

I get a lot of stowaways during the journey. This guy literally spun around for a few miles and would not let go